CommanderLake
Member
I need to mount the Serial OLED display verticly on a PCB whats the best way to do this and how does the serial interface work with just 1 wire?
How do you want to mount it 'vertically'? Mount it perpendicular to the PCB? In which case use right angle headers to attach the OLED display to your PCB. The AXE133 PCB is not suitable for direct mounting on a PCB so you should use the OLED in parallel mode or put the PICAXE-18M2 from the AXE133 PCB on your main PCB.I need to mount the Serial OLED display verticly on a PCB whats the best way to do this
It doesn't - a ground connection ('0V reference') is also required. The serial used is asynchronous so no additional clock signal is required but the timing must be precise.and how does the serial interface work with just 1 wire?
The AXE133 Datasheet.Yes perpendicular, where can I find a diagram for connecting the AXE133 PICAXE to the OLED display?
Some parts read like the imminent death of the PICAXE -" The 5v supply is switching from +30V to +/-5V"I Have been working long and hard on a 7.1 class a amplifier with PGA4311 volume control IC's and a 14M2 PICAXE.
I want the PCB mounted on a large square heatsinks at either end using them (the heat sinks) as stands with no case.
Connected to the PICAXE I have 2 relays via (each?) a BJT to gnd to cut the huge 33mF caps, 1 positive and 1 negative, from the amps with 1mF on the other side of the relays to smooth out any lumps and bumps when they turn on.
A voltage divider with 0.05% 125mW resistors 2x 18K and a 1 x 1K (resistor) with a 5.1V zener to gnd to protect from over voltage.
The volume control is (to the) ADC on the 14M2 with a 10K pot.
The 5v supply is switching from +30V to +/-5V so I can put the amp into a low power state just by turning the volume knob to zero.
I and use a few little buttons for a simple menu for LFE gain and display brightness etc.
I have a space 30mm deep by 100mm wide clear of traces for the display to the left of the volume knob which is in the middle.
I hate to say it, but this has been a pretty difficult thread to understand.Serial OLED display, 3CM by 10CM space on PCB, mounted perpendicular (facing forward) on my amplifier project (still designing in diptrace), mounting suggestions please.
For mounting your PCB inside your case Self Adhesive PCB pillars work well.Serial OLED display, 3CM by 10CM space on PCB, mounted perpendicular (facing forward) on my amplifier project (still designing in diptrace), mounting suggestions please.
Those may work OK, just need to double check the clearance around the tracks on the OLED panel, might be an idea to stick fibre washers between the panel and the pillars. Mounting it on just the lower two holes should be OK. You'll need to just hard wire the three connections from the serial daughter board on the back of the display (0V, +5V and serial in) to your main circuit board with hook up wire.Hey look these look suitable: http://uk.farnell.com/ettinger/05-60-422/cube-standoff-threaded-3xm2-5-12/dp/1466867
That's where I'm ordering all my parts from.
It's a serial OLED, though, so the daughter board will get in the way and prevent this method from being used easily, I think.For the OLED display, either use the right angled connectors, use straight ones as right angled ones or connect the OLED to the PCB using wires and bolt the OLED to the front panel.
I've already mentioned that.It's a serial OLED, though, so the daughter board will get in the way and prevent this method from being used easily, I think.
Since the OP is using a smaller PICAXE, there really is no reason why the OP cannot use the parallel interface since in this application I can see no drawbacks after switching to a larger PICAXE and the need for an additional IC or PCB is eliminated. I 'upgraded' my GCSE project (which used an AXE033) a few months ago with a new mainboard, X2 PICAXE and parallel LCD interface and the elimination of the AXE033 PCB has freed up a lot of space and if I had used the parallel interface in the first place I could have made the case about 1cm thinner than it was.The AXE133 PCB is not suitable for direct mounting on a PCB so you should use the OLED in parallel mode or put the PICAXE-18M2 from the AXE133 PCB on your main PCB.
So what you have is a board with one PICAXE, to which you are going to add another PICAXE 18M2 which will drive an OLED display connected at right angles to the PCB.I can connect the display directly to my PCB with the 18M2 so I dont need the daughter board.
I dont want to over complicate the programming by integrating it all into 1 PICAXE.
Yes it is because you can reprogram this PICAXE-18M2 firmware chip.I dont like the yellow display and would prefer another color, I dont know if THIS is compatible with the 18M2 firmware chip that comes with the AXE133Y but the pads are on the top edge as you pointed out Jeremy this is an issue.
Did you check on the techsupplies website ?I would want the 18M2 with the firmware without buying the AXE133Y display. If the display I buy happens to have an SSD1311 I might need to modify the firmware assuming its written in basic.
Can I respectfully suggest that you try to clearly state what you are trying to do. Most folks here are confused what you are exactly trying to do.I'm faced with a tricky decision here, if I stick with the AXE133Y and use a red filter it might not look right and I have to be sure the pads and mounting holes are in the right place OR I can get a display with another color and alignment of the mounting holes wont be so important but I need a way of connecting it up because the pads are on the top edge and I would want the 18M2 with the firmware without buying the AXE133Y display and if the display I buy happens to have an SSD1311 I might need to modify the firmware assuming its written in basic and I might need help with that if its particularly complex (dont get me wrong I do some pretty advanced C# but its always hard work getting my head around new and particularly complex stuff).
Quite likely that you will not easily find a pre-made/terminated ribbon cable with the right number of wires.Well the AXE133 firmware is fairly simple so all I need now is a way of connecting an OLED module with the pads on the top edge to my amplifier board, so I need to look for a ribbon cable of some sort.
C.4 is the Serial In pin for programming the PICAXE and the PICAXE would not work if this pin gets high before the disconnect command can be executed.A quick question about the AXE133 firmware; why is C.5 used for the serial input and not C.4 which the pinout for the 18M2 says is the serial in?
Perhaps enrol in a English class, should you get tired of Picaxe.Right tanks I duno wot I wood do witout u folks
I dont think so, do your own leg work, i have better things to do than trying to find a connector to what no one here seems to be able to understand what it is you want to do in the first place.see if you can find anything on farnell thats where I'm getting all my components.
I would concur about the DuPont stuff, pin headers are real cheap and these things are ideal for connecting two sets of header pins.One if the easiest ways is to use Dupont cables, they are magic for connecting LCD's and other project boards together, all you need is some header pins on both boards.
Whats the problem with just using bits of insulated wire ?Oh yea so the search continues, see if you can find anything on farnell thats where I'm getting all my components.