Mount Serial OLED display vertical

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CommanderLake

Member
I need to mount the Serial OLED display verticly on a PCB whats the best way to do this and how does the serial interface work with just 1 wire?
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
I need to mount the Serial OLED display verticly on a PCB whats the best way to do this
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How do you want to mount it 'vertically'? Mount it perpendicular to the PCB? In which case use right angle headers to attach the OLED display to your PCB. The AXE133 PCB is not suitable for direct mounting on a PCB so you should use the OLED in parallel mode or put the PICAXE-18M2 from the AXE133 PCB on your main PCB.

CommanderLake said:
and how does the serial interface work with just 1 wire?
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It doesn't - a ground connection ('0V reference') is also required. The serial used is asynchronous so no additional clock signal is required but the timing must be precise.

Can a mod move this to the Active PICAXE Forum?
 
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CommanderLake

Member
Yes perpendicular, where can I find a diagram for connecting the AXE133 PICAXE to the OLED display?

Oops I didnt realise I posted in the wrong forum.
 
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westaust55

Moderator
Posting a sketch of more precisely how you look to mount the Display could be helpful.

What is the PCB you wish to mount perpendicular to?
Is it a designed commercial product, one you will create yourself?
Can you leave room for some right angle support brackets?
Why are you seeking to mount the display perpendicular to another PCB?
 
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CommanderLake

Member
On my amplifier project I have a space 30mm deep by 100mm wide clear of traces for the display, I want it facing forward because it would look stupid pointing up at the sky.
 
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SAborn

Senior Member
Gee! i hope someone else can sort this out because i'm lost in space trying to figure out how the above circuit described factors in to the picaxe question.

How do the functions of your circuit relate to what orientation the LCD is positioned at, I'm lost?

Basically put a ribbon cable on the LCD and place it where ever you want.
 
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westaust55

Moderator
Here is my interpretation (right or wrong) with some punctuation and formatting:
I Have been working long and hard on a 7.1 class a amplifier with PGA4311 volume control IC's and a 14M2 PICAXE.

I want the PCB mounted on a large square heatsinks at either end using them (the heat sinks) as stands with no case.

Connected to the PICAXE I have 2 relays via (each?) a BJT to gnd to cut the huge 33mF caps, 1 positive and 1 negative, from the amps with 1mF on the other side of the relays to smooth out any lumps and bumps when they turn on.
A voltage divider with 0.05% 125mW resistors 2x 18K and a 1 x 1K (resistor) with a 5.1V zener to gnd to protect from over voltage.
The volume control is (to the) ADC on the 14M2 with a 10K pot.
The 5v supply is switching from +30V to +/-5V so I can put the amp into a low power state just by turning the volume knob to zero.
I and use a few little buttons for a simple menu for LFE gain and display brightness etc.

I have a space 30mm deep by 100mm wide clear of traces for the display to the left of the volume knob which is in the middle.
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Some parts read like the imminent death of the PICAXE -" The 5v supply is switching from +30V to +/-5V"
Where is the volume control relative to the heat sinks or other items - all rather vague.

Can I suggest you start again.

Lets start with the fact that there are no restrictions on the orientation of mounting angle of an LCD (within viewing angle limitations) or OLED displays.

Heat sinks may be at a voltage other than ground - not good but some amps are that way.
A bracket near the heat sink would be better than mounting on the heat sink. Heat sinks have a task - to remove heat from semiconductors and diddpate the heat into the surrounding air.
Lots of heat and LCD/OLED displays do not mix well

So try a sketch to show what you want to do. An alternative is a photo and use MS Paint to identify where you propose to put the display module.
Then clearly state clearly and exactly what you need help with.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
Didn't think you could handle all that so I have simplified the post for you.

I'm just looking for mounting suggestions.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
Serial OLED display, 3CM by 10CM space on PCB, mounted perpendicular (facing forward) on my amplifier project (still designing in diptrace), mounting suggestions please.
 
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Jeremy Harris

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
Serial OLED display, 3CM by 10CM space on PCB, mounted perpendicular (facing forward) on my amplifier project (still designing in diptrace), mounting suggestions please.
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I hate to say it, but this has been a pretty difficult thread to understand.

Have you actually got a serial OLED and if so, can you see why people are struggling to understand what you're trying to do?

The serial OLED modules have four 2.5mm diameter mounting holes around the edge of the display board. Those are the only structural attachments provided. If your circuit board orientation is such that the main board forms the base of your project and you want to mount the display vertically, with it fixed to the main circuit board, then your only option is to make up some right angle brackets and bolt it in place. There is no way that the serial OLED display can be adequately mounted directly to a circuit board at right angles using just a right angle header, for two reasons. Firstly, the serial daughter board on the display has the serial input and power connections on the end, rather than the edge. Secondly, the serial daughter board isn't an adequate way of securing the whole display.
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
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Jeremy Harris

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
Hey look these look suitable: http://uk.farnell.com/ettinger/05-60-422/cube-standoff-threaded-3xm2-5-12/dp/1466867

That's where I'm ordering all my parts from.
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Those may work OK, just need to double check the clearance around the tracks on the OLED panel, might be an idea to stick fibre washers between the panel and the pillars. Mounting it on just the lower two holes should be OK. You'll need to just hard wire the three connections from the serial daughter board on the back of the display (0V, +5V and serial in) to your main circuit board with hook up wire.
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
Jeremy Harris said:
It's a serial OLED, though, so the daughter board will get in the way and prevent this method from being used easily, I think.
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I've already mentioned that.
nick12ab said:
The AXE133 PCB is not suitable for direct mounting on a PCB so you should use the OLED in parallel mode or put the PICAXE-18M2 from the AXE133 PCB on your main PCB.
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Since the OP is using a smaller PICAXE, there really is no reason why the OP cannot use the parallel interface since in this application I can see no drawbacks after switching to a larger PICAXE and the need for an additional IC or PCB is eliminated. I 'upgraded' my GCSE project (which used an AXE033) a few months ago with a new mainboard, X2 PICAXE and parallel LCD interface and the elimination of the AXE033 PCB has freed up a lot of space and if I had used the parallel interface in the first place I could have made the case about 1cm thinner than it was.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
I can connect the display directly to my PCB with the 18M2 so I dont need the daughter board.

I dont want to over complicate the programming by integrating it all into 1 PICAXE.
 
hippy

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
CommanderLake said:
I can connect the display directly to my PCB with the 18M2 so I dont need the daughter board.

I dont want to over complicate the programming by integrating it all into 1 PICAXE.
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So what you have is a board with one PICAXE, to which you are going to add another PICAXE 18M2 which will drive an OLED display connected at right angles to the PCB.

That seems okay, and right angle connectors are probably what you will need to use.

However - Which or what OLED display ? When the OLED shows text the right way up, is its connector at the bottom or top ?
 
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Jeremy Harris

Senior Member
The thread title refers to mounting a SERIAL OLED display, but presumably what's now being discussed is mounting a PARALLEL OLED display, right?

If so, then yes, it can be mounted using an ordinary right angle header, or, if you're careful, by bending the pins on a straight header.

Like hippy, I'm uncertain as to what's going on. Are you planning to just fit an 18M2 to the main circuit board now, as a substitute for the 18M2 that normally runs the serial conversion, and then fit the OLED display adjacent to it? If so, that will work, provided you choose a parallel display that has the pads at the base, rather than at the top.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
I was talking about the AXE133Y kit that's called "Serial OLED" on the PICAXE website and connecting the display board directly to my board along with the 18M2 that comes with it eliminating the need for the daughter board that comes with the kit and route the serial interface to my 14M2 (and power to the 18M2 obviously)...

BUT

I dont like the yellow display and would prefer another color, I dont know if THIS is compatible with the 18M2 firmware chip that comes with the AXE133Y but the pads are on the top edge as you pointed out Jeremy this is an issue.
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
I dont like the yellow display and would prefer another color, I dont know if THIS is compatible with the 18M2 firmware chip that comes with the AXE133Y but the pads are on the top edge as you pointed out Jeremy this is an issue.
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Yes it is because you can reprogram this PICAXE-18M2 firmware chip.

But whether it will work without modification - I'm not completely sure because I'm not completely sure what you are actually getting.

Midas appears to be just a badge engineering firm (i.e. they sell modules made by other companies and republish data sheets with a feeble attempt to remove the manufacturer's logo). The OLED you linked has a datasheet with the right product code but the OLED in the counter drawing is not the same as the one in the picture which is a Raystar product. Raystar specify that this display uses the WS0010 driver chip (like the Winstar OLEDs) but the Midas Displays datasheet (with the wrong counter drawing) specifies that it has the SSD1311 chip which has additional capabilities such as brightness control - I haven't studied the datasheet in detail to see if it will work 100% as a drop in replacement for WS0010-compatible OLEDs but from a quick glance it appears to use HD44780-compatible commands so should work. BUT another Midas Displays PDF says the MCOC1602A range uses the WS0010! I cannot be sure what it actually uses, but that is unimportant since both appear to be HD44780-compatible and you can reprogram the 18M2 anyway.

That OLED display is also expensive - you could get a large module from Rapid for that price, but it's yellow.

It is possible to use Quality Street wrappers as filters - I checked a yellow Winstar OLED with a CD and the emitted light does have decent red light content - so a red filter should work without significant intensity issues. If you are worried about it looking unprofessional, put the wrappers in a flower press to flatten them then fit the wrapper between the bezel and OLED glass, or simply buy the transparent red stuff on a roll.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
I'm faced with a tricky decision here, if I stick with the AXE133Y and use a red filter it might not look right and I have to be sure the pads and mounting holes are in the right place OR I can get a display with another color and alignment of the mounting holes wont be so important but I need a way of connecting it up because the pads are on the top edge and I would want the 18M2 with the firmware without buying the AXE133Y display and if the display I buy happens to have an SSD1311 I might need to modify the firmware assuming its written in basic and I might need help with that if its particularly complex (dont get me wrong I do some pretty advanced C# but its always hard work getting my head around new and particularly complex stuff).
 
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srnet

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
I would want the 18M2 with the firmware without buying the AXE133Y display. If the display I buy happens to have an SSD1311 I might need to modify the firmware assuming its written in basic.
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Did you check on the techsupplies website ?

Search on AX133Y and you will find the PICAXE basic code used to drive the display.
 
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westaust55

Moderator
CommanderLake said:
I'm faced with a tricky decision here, if I stick with the AXE133Y and use a red filter it might not look right and I have to be sure the pads and mounting holes are in the right place OR I can get a display with another color and alignment of the mounting holes wont be so important but I need a way of connecting it up because the pads are on the top edge and I would want the 18M2 with the firmware without buying the AXE133Y display and if the display I buy happens to have an SSD1311 I might need to modify the firmware assuming its written in basic and I might need help with that if its particularly complex (dont get me wrong I do some pretty advanced C# but its always hard work getting my head around new and particularly complex stuff).
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Can I respectfully suggest that you try to clearly state what you are trying to do. Most folks here are confused what you are exactly trying to do.
A block of text like the above held together with about 7 ANDs and 1 OR is hard to read. Try a full stop or six.
You have mentioned mounting the display to a PCB and in a (now modified) post on page 1 there was suggestion of mounting to the amplifier heat sinks. The now modified post did originally state you had an open amp with no case so case mounting is not possible. The fact you deleted that fact (that is, no case) resulted in a suggestion for case mounting.

Please, please try and provide a clear punctuated description WITH a sketch of you proposal and link to parts you have or intend to purchase.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
Well the AXE133 firmware is fairly simple so all I need now is a way of connecting an OLED module with the pads on the top edge to my amplifier board, so I need to look for a ribbon cable of some sort.
 
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westaust55

Moderator
CommanderLake said:
Well the AXE133 firmware is fairly simple so all I need now is a way of connecting an OLED module with the pads on the top edge to my amplifier board, so I need to look for a ribbon cable of some sort.
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Quite likely that you will not easily find a pre-made/terminated ribbon cable with the right number of wires.
It is easy enough to buy some header pin and socket strips and some ribbon cable. Solder the hearer pins to the display module and the ribbon cable to the socket.
The Rev Ed on-line store have a range of header type connector parts: http://www.techsupplies.co.uk/epages/Store.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Store.TechSupplies/Categories/ElectronicComponents/Connectors/254mm_headers

If there is an electronics store near you they should have all the parts you need.
 
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SAborn

Senior Member
I dont think that connector is much use to you unless you have the plastic laminated ribbon strip that is often used in todays electronics, i doubt it will work with copper wire ribbon cable.
 
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CommanderLake

Member
Oh yea so the search continues, see if you can find anything on farnell thats where I'm getting all my components.

A quick question about the AXE133 firmware; why is C.5 used for the serial input and not C.4 which the pinout for the 18M2 says is the serial in?
 
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nick12ab

Senior Member
CommanderLake said:
A quick question about the AXE133 firmware; why is C.5 used for the serial input and not C.4 which the pinout for the 18M2 says is the serial in?
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C.4 is the Serial In pin for programming the PICAXE and the PICAXE would not work if this pin gets high before the disconnect command can be executed.
 
B

BeanieBots

Moderator
Any input can be used to receive serial data.
"serial in" is a special input used for programming the PICAXE.
In CAN be used to receive serial data but there are limitations, so one of the other inputs would be a more logical choice.
 
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SAborn

Senior Member
Right tanks I duno wot I wood do witout u folks
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Perhaps enrol in a English class, should you get tired of Picaxe.

see if you can find anything on farnell thats where I'm getting all my components.
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I dont think so, do your own leg work, i have better things to do than trying to find a connector to what no one here seems to be able to understand what it is you want to do in the first place.
 
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srnet

Senior Member
SAborn said:
One if the easiest ways is to use Dupont cables, they are magic for connecting LCD's and other project boards together, all you need is some header pins on both boards.
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I would concur about the DuPont stuff, pin headers are real cheap and these things are ideal for connecting two sets of header pins.

There are lots of other more expensive and more time consuming methods of doing it of course.
 
E

eclectic

Moderator
I've only been watching, but, like others,
I'm still not sure.

CommanderLake,
please can you post
photo's or very specific diagrams

of exactly what is required to connect with what?

e
 
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