I, for one, can't wait till this is avail. for the electronic hobbiest:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2354848,00.asp
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2354848,00.asp
I don't think that one is in the public domain just yetCan someone email me the PDF to print a PICAXE 28X5 please?
Thanks!
Just what we need a second wifeThe possibilities ... actively remind you to take your medicine, or confirm whether you already took it ...
aparently with some of the current ink you can "bake" them in the oven, so it's just a case of modifying a printer to take pcbs instead of paperI would just like ot be able to print on a pcb with an inkjet, this toner transfer gig is doing my head in.
i think they will probably favour a thin polycarbonate or somthing similarI bet a short on a paper PCB would be interesting!
Well you can buy inkjet printers that print direct to cd so you could atleast do something 120x120.aparently with some of the current ink you can "bake" them in the oven, so it's just a case of modifying a printer to take pcbs instead of paper
i've looked at trying that before but i don't have the money for one of those printers, and the only person i know who has one won't let me use try itWell you can buy inkjet printers that print direct to cd so you could atleast do something 120x120.
essentially what i do is print a mirrored version of the circuit and place it inkside down against the photoresist layer and sandwich that between somthing transparent like a sheet of perspex or glass depending on size,DemPicGuy: Can you please share, how do you expose your positive ? What UV source (type,power etc.) ? How long do you expose for ?
I use transparencies with GE 125W UV bulb (similar to Hg-vapour) and I get reasonably good results with 5-6mins exposure. I would like to try the plain paper way as I think the final PCB could maybe be a bit "cleaner" AND off-course is cheaper too.....
We've got a microboards CD printer and a couple of years back we milled a circle of FR4 and tried exactly that. It went through and printed ok as expected, but inkjet printing via that method is just not dark or consistant enough - the inkdots do not merge like they do on an absorboant material like paper so there were lots of tiny streaks and gaps which makes it a pretty useless method for PCBs!Well you can buy inkjet printers that print direct to cd so you could atleast do something 120x120.
Photo boards are waaaaaaay to exspensive down here, like $13.00 for 100x150mm. I fix photocopiers so other than a endless supply of LCD's, stepper motors and sensors I can pretty much practice to my hearts content with toner transfer. Albiet tediouse I know if the transfer worked then the etch will. Does anyone know the science behind the danger of the chemicals? I mean it says don't touch it but what is the best way to neutralize or despose of the chemicals? Read somewhere to just use soap powder!i've looked at trying that before but i don't have the money for one of those printers, and the only person i know who has one won't let me use try it
for the time being i'm quite content with the photoresist method and plain paper i'm getting traces a small as 0.2mm with incredible reliability
aparently you can neutralize ferric chloride with sodium hydroxide (aka draino ) dilute it and send it on it's merry way down the drain,which probably couldn't be a better solution since you use the sodium hydroxide to strip off the photostrip off the pcb anywayPhoto boards are waaaaaaay to exspensive down here, like $13.00 for 100x150mm. I fix photocopiers so other than a endless supply of LCD's, stepper motors and sensors I can pretty much practice to my hearts content with toner transfer. Albiet tediouse I know if the transfer worked then the etch will. Does anyone know the science behind the danger of the chemicals? I mean it says don't touch it but what is the best way to neutralize or despose of the chemicals? Read somewhere to just use soap powder!
i'm not entirely sure, the only reason i do what i do with ferric chloride is because that what i was advised i could do by my local council as well as dispose of it free of charge,What about Ammonium persulfate?