what to start building before my picaxe arrives
- Thread starter tater1337
- Start date
inglewoodpete
Senior Member
I'm guessing but things you may want to get if you're starting out with a PICAXE are a couple of momentary contact pushbutton switches and possibly an LDR (light dependant resistor).
Have fun
Have fun
As carriage/postage can be expensive and passives cheap, I'd be more enthusiastic.
A larger range of resistors; 330R, 470R , 1k0 , 2k2 , 4k7 , 10k, 22K, 47k, 100K , 1M0. Maybe more.
Get 20 of each. Splash the cash.
Capacitors:
220uF / 25V
100uF / 25V
100uF / 6.3V
22uF / various V
100nF / 50V ceramic
22nF / ceramic (All the above can be used for smoohing, decoupling and filtering)
18pF / ceramic (for use if you ever wish to use crystals for precision)
LEDs:
I suggest high brightness 3mm / 5mm cheapoes e.g. Kingbright. They are 'king bright.
You can run these at lower currents; saves power ad less stress on PICAXE outputs.
All the colours.
Diodes:
A few BAT48 or BAT85s
A few 1N4002 or similar.
Transistors:
A few low power NPNs and PNPs e.g. BC184L and BC214L or similar
Leave Power stuff unles you have specific project in mind now??
And get a dozen download jack sockets for PICXE cable - I never understand why people only buy one or two - easy to break with 500W soldering iron and think of the carriage costs to re-order.
basically, for cheap-ish components if you want ONE of something then get 10.
Yes, more money up front, but if you are taking the hobby seriously then building up a small stock makes life easier.
AND some small cheap plastic boxes with dividers for storage.
And a labeller or indelible (inedible) felt tip pen.
Good storage makes life easier as well.
Worth the extra tenner in the long run believe me.
Obviously tools and consumables, but I'll leave that to you...
ENJOY
A larger range of resistors; 330R, 470R , 1k0 , 2k2 , 4k7 , 10k, 22K, 47k, 100K , 1M0. Maybe more.
Get 20 of each. Splash the cash.
Capacitors:
220uF / 25V
100uF / 25V
100uF / 6.3V
22uF / various V
100nF / 50V ceramic
22nF / ceramic (All the above can be used for smoohing, decoupling and filtering)
18pF / ceramic (for use if you ever wish to use crystals for precision)
LEDs:
I suggest high brightness 3mm / 5mm cheapoes e.g. Kingbright. They are 'king bright.
You can run these at lower currents; saves power ad less stress on PICAXE outputs.
All the colours.
Diodes:
A few BAT48 or BAT85s
A few 1N4002 or similar.
Transistors:
A few low power NPNs and PNPs e.g. BC184L and BC214L or similar
Leave Power stuff unles you have specific project in mind now??
And get a dozen download jack sockets for PICXE cable - I never understand why people only buy one or two - easy to break with 500W soldering iron and think of the carriage costs to re-order.
basically, for cheap-ish components if you want ONE of something then get 10.
Yes, more money up front, but if you are taking the hobby seriously then building up a small stock makes life easier.
AND some small cheap plastic boxes with dividers for storage.
And a labeller or indelible (inedible) felt tip pen.
Good storage makes life easier as well.
Worth the extra tenner in the long run believe me.
Obviously tools and consumables, but I'll leave that to you...
ENJOY
BeanieBots
Moderator
You've not indicated your experience level but as you have little or no components and the question itself suggest suggests very little.
In which case I would strongly suggest getting a starter lit to include pre-made board and the AXE027 USB download cable. At least then you will have a known working project.
If you plan on doing much work with servos, then the 28X1 project board is almost a must. Most servos (eg Futaba and HiTech) come with a 3 pin SIL connector. The 28X1 project board only requires the addition of a SIL header for servos to plug directly onto the board.
Even if you don't get the ready made board, get plenty of SIL header pins for connecting servos.
As pointed out by Hippy, do NOT use the darlinton to drive servos.
In which case I would strongly suggest getting a starter lit to include pre-made board and the AXE027 USB download cable. At least then you will have a known working project.
If you plan on doing much work with servos, then the 28X1 project board is almost a must. Most servos (eg Futaba and HiTech) come with a 3 pin SIL connector. The 28X1 project board only requires the addition of a SIL header for servos to plug directly onto the board.
Even if you don't get the ready made board, get plenty of SIL header pins for connecting servos.
As pointed out by Hippy, do NOT use the darlinton to drive servos.
slimplynth
Senior Member
Maplins sell a box with internal dividers for 20 quid, fair enough there's few components included but I'm guessing the bulk of the cost is due to the plastic storage box.
What or where does anyone else get their storage boxes from. My transient lifestyle usually means theres a cardboard box in the boot of the car with tupperware and rev-ed A4 envelopes full of little bags of components. Half the task of starting anything, includes at least half an hour rumaging/sifting/sorting.
I'd also suggest a few small books, to maximise your free time and learnings.
Battery powered soldering iron is also great for vagrants like me.
What or where does anyone else get their storage boxes from. My transient lifestyle usually means theres a cardboard box in the boot of the car with tupperware and rev-ed A4 envelopes full of little bags of components. Half the task of starting anything, includes at least half an hour rumaging/sifting/sorting.
I'd also suggest a few small books, to maximise your free time and learnings.
Battery powered soldering iron is also great for vagrants like me.
hippy
Ex-Staff (retired)
Pound / Dollar shops can be handy for storage boxes. The 4 x 3 drawer units usually clip together and make a relatively cheap 'full wall' component racking system. Only issue is they are usually one-size drawers which can be a problem for larger components. Nothing beats going up to a rack and instantly finding the component needed; one rack dedicated to resistors and another to capacitors, value downwards, magnitude across is what I recommend. Well worthwhile even if some of the drawers start off empty. Different coloured units make for distinguishing passives, IC's, nuts and bolts etc.
Perhaps the most fruitful thing one can do while waiting for a PICAXE to arrive is, as slimplynth suggests, to read up on the PICAXE, peruse the forum and work your way through the manuals.
Perhaps the most fruitful thing one can do while waiting for a PICAXE to arrive is, as slimplynth suggests, to read up on the PICAXE, peruse the forum and work your way through the manuals.
The 3x AA one Maplin sell is actually pretty good, I managed to pick up a couple from a car boot sale (seller had a ton of Maplin returned stuff) in the 3-for-£5 bin, I often find myself using one instead of my temperature controlled desk one because it's so quick & convenient for small jobs. Good idea to use low self discharge rechargable batteries in them so it's always ready when you need it.
Once bought a ColdHeat battery soldering iron, utter tosh it was compared to a proper iron, tried soldering something which needed heating up quite a bit and the plastic piece holding the iron's tip melted causing the metal prongs gripping the tip to short the batteries out.
Last edited:
lbenson
Senior Member
if Medford, WI is Wisconson, you may want some U.S. suppliers:
www.jameco.com -- general parts
www.digikey.com "
www.mouser.com "
www.phanderson.com -- picaxe supplier & source of general good information
www.advancedmicrocircuits.com -- picaxe supplier
www.sparkfun.com -- picaxe supplier & many hobbiest parts
www.jrhackett.net -- picaxe supplier with good project boards (SIP08 and SIP14)
www.allelectronics.com -- various, including breadboards & sized breadboard wires
If you want to do radio stuff, sparkfun's 315mHz transmitters and receivers work for me. If you want to run from batteries and use a regulator, the 7805 is hoggish--my current favorites are LM2931 (100mA) and LM2940 (1A) (note from the datasheets the capacitors required).
For general purpose, low power transistors, it's hard to beat the 2N3904 NPN and 2N3906 PNP ($.025 and $.035 respectively at Jameco).
If you want to familiarize yourself in general with parts and their uses, work through Manual 3, building the circuits.
Best tool for developing code: the simulator in the Programming Editor.
Read the manuals, and, as Dippy would say, read the datasheets.
Lots of fun to be had.
www.jameco.com -- general parts
www.digikey.com "
www.mouser.com "
www.phanderson.com -- picaxe supplier & source of general good information
www.advancedmicrocircuits.com -- picaxe supplier
www.sparkfun.com -- picaxe supplier & many hobbiest parts
www.jrhackett.net -- picaxe supplier with good project boards (SIP08 and SIP14)
www.allelectronics.com -- various, including breadboards & sized breadboard wires
If you want to do radio stuff, sparkfun's 315mHz transmitters and receivers work for me. If you want to run from batteries and use a regulator, the 7805 is hoggish--my current favorites are LM2931 (100mA) and LM2940 (1A) (note from the datasheets the capacitors required).
For general purpose, low power transistors, it's hard to beat the 2N3904 NPN and 2N3906 PNP ($.025 and $.035 respectively at Jameco).
If you want to familiarize yourself in general with parts and their uses, work through Manual 3, building the circuits.
Best tool for developing code: the simulator in the Programming Editor.
Read the manuals, and, as Dippy would say, read the datasheets.
Lots of fun to be had.
For storage of resistors I use normal white envelopes sealed then cut in half. I write the value on the outside and the stock code of my favourite supplier underneath. These envelopes then go in custom made cardboard box, that looks a lot like the old floppy disk drive box, with dividers showing ranges.
In addition to components, you should also get at least a basic multimeter to measure voltages, currents, and resistances. Cheap but still very usable ones sell for well below $10 and are a big help in troubleshooting - it will save you many hours of work. Here's such a unit:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DVM-810/ECONOMY-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER/-/1.html
or a better one for slightly more
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DVM-850BL/3-1/2-DIGIT-LCD-MULTIMETER-W/-BACKLIGHT/-/1.html
Of course if you want to spend more (around $50 - $100) you can get a fancier one that can also measure capacitance, frequency, and will be more accurate and more rugged, but for the beginning it's not really that necessary.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DVM-810/ECONOMY-DIGITAL-MULTIMETER/-/1.html
or a better one for slightly more
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DVM-850BL/3-1/2-DIGIT-LCD-MULTIMETER-W/-BACKLIGHT/-/1.html
Of course if you want to spend more (around $50 - $100) you can get a fancier one that can also measure capacitance, frequency, and will be more accurate and more rugged, but for the beginning it's not really that necessary.
BeanieBots
Moderator
Some new felt tip pens to go with the breadboard. (inside joke).
An assortment of IC sockets would be a very good idea.
An assortment of IC sockets would be a very good idea.
Mycroft2152
Senior Member
If you live near a Harbor Freight Tool store, you can pick up a similar multimeter for between $1.99 and $3.99 depending on the sale at the time.
Mycroft2152
Senior Member
I bought 3!
heh, i should have given a bit of background.
anyway, ordered the 14m starter kit. have meter, iron, reisstors, breadboard, and a LOT of other fiddly bits already, including an asoc. science in electronic engineering! didn't order a cable, as I got DB9s laying about and other bits for them to work.
thanks all, will be waiting for my starter kit in the mail now.
anyway, ordered the 14m starter kit. have meter, iron, reisstors, breadboard, and a LOT of other fiddly bits already, including an asoc. science in electronic engineering! didn't order a cable, as I got DB9s laying about and other bits for them to work.
thanks all, will be waiting for my starter kit in the mail now.
just wired up my data cable, dug out my old USB 2 serial dongle and got things working (sorta)
just double checking, I saw an old post refering to using ones own USB2serial and that prolific does work. but i'm kinda confused.
the sheet for the axe027 says it converts USB signals to 5v logic level, but I thought serial rs-232 was 20ma logic levels. is this a typo?
just double checking, I saw an old post refering to using ones own USB2serial and that prolific does work. but i'm kinda confused.
the sheet for the axe027 says it converts USB signals to 5v logic level, but I thought serial rs-232 was 20ma logic levels. is this a typo?
hippy
Ex-Staff (retired)
The AXE027 is compatible with the PICAXE download interface, and that interface is also compatible with RS232. Probably best leave it at that rather than get into complicated technical details.
Prolific PL2303 based USB-to-serial do work, but need the right drivers, may sometimes be harder to set up, and may not be supported on all OS's ( 98SE, XP and Vista 32-bit are known to work ).
Whether 'any old USB-to-serial cable' will work depends on what its chipset and driver support is. We would recommend an AXE027. Home built cables can lead to a lot of frustration, annoyance and debugging when they don't work immediately.
Prolific PL2303 based USB-to-serial do work, but need the right drivers, may sometimes be harder to set up, and may not be supported on all OS's ( 98SE, XP and Vista 32-bit are known to work ).
Whether 'any old USB-to-serial cable' will work depends on what its chipset and driver support is. We would recommend an AXE027. Home built cables can lead to a lot of frustration, annoyance and debugging when they don't work immediately.
Re Whether 'any old USB-to-serial cable' will work depends on what its chipset and driver support is. We would recommend an AXE027. Home built cables can lead to a lot of frustration, annoyance and debugging when they don't work immediately.
I'll second that. Just use the axe027 and the 10k and 22k resistors as per the schematics.
Let us know when all the parts arrive. It is a great feeling when you get that led to flash.
I'll second that. Just use the axe027 and the 10k and 22k resistors as per the schematics.
Let us know when all the parts arrive. It is a great feeling when you get that led to flash.
The old addeage "you get what you pay for" is unfortunately too often right, I bought some computery type bits'n'bobs from Chinese eBay sellers last year, the USB 2.0 hubs turned out to be 1.1 (got a refund), and when I got round to using the USB-Serial adaptor I couldn't get any of the drivers on the CD to work, even searched the net for the 'right' ones as suggested by other people who had difficulties with Chinese adaptors but those didn't work either.
Ended up getting the AXE027 and that works fine on my laptop, except for one minor annoyance - when I first plugged into one of the USB ports and it asked for the driver, I installed it from the CD no problems, but when I tried plugging it in the other two USB ports it asked for the driver again which I gave it but that didn't make it work, it only ever works in the first USB port I installed the driver.
Ended up getting the AXE027 and that works fine on my laptop, except for one minor annoyance - when I first plugged into one of the USB ports and it asked for the driver, I installed it from the CD no problems, but when I tried plugging it in the other two USB ports it asked for the driver again which I gave it but that didn't make it work, it only ever works in the first USB port I installed the driver.
Aha. "you get what you pay for" - a phrase I apply to many things.
Other than supply problems I never understand why so many people penny-pinch.
Wait 3 weeks to save a dime. Drive 50 miles to save a quid. Beyond me.
Sometimes though, it's possible to be unkowingly 'guilty'.
You can buy an item from a famous manufacturer without realising that the accountants have told them to buy the cheapest components on the planet. Components that have a >90% chance of surviving the warranty period...just.
,,, I'm only whinging because the SD card socket on my HP (made in Ch) desktop has just bust - and I'm a gentle inserter.
Trouble is that if the manufactirer's product costs an extra quid then the tightfists of the Wolrd will buy the cheaper one - regardless of the extra quality. (I'm guilty). The option would be lovely but we don't know what carp goes into these devices.
End Proc[Rant]
Other than supply problems I never understand why so many people penny-pinch.
Wait 3 weeks to save a dime. Drive 50 miles to save a quid. Beyond me.
Sometimes though, it's possible to be unkowingly 'guilty'.
You can buy an item from a famous manufacturer without realising that the accountants have told them to buy the cheapest components on the planet. Components that have a >90% chance of surviving the warranty period...just.
,,, I'm only whinging because the SD card socket on my HP (made in Ch) desktop has just bust - and I'm a gentle inserter.
Trouble is that if the manufactirer's product costs an extra quid then the tightfists of the Wolrd will buy the cheaper one - regardless of the extra quality. (I'm guilty). The option would be lovely but we don't know what carp goes into these devices.
End Proc[Rant]
I can understand the idea here, but my reasoning is that I don't want to buy yeat another dongle thingy that i gotta attach to my computer! I think i ran out of usb ports on it yesterday!
well, my issue is "why by another adaptor if this one works?" I have enough USB cables and adapters, I really dont want to add another one. The DB9 will be part of the picaxe, so it wont get lost or confused with the 10 other USB cables I have
I have the same issues. I think it's a USB thing, not worried, as long as I got it to work.Ended up getting the AXE027 and that works fine on my laptop, except for one minor annoyance - when I first plugged into one of the USB ports and it asked for the driver, I installed it from the CD no problems, but when I tried plugging it in the other two USB ports it asked for the driver again which I gave it but that didn't make it work, it only ever works in the first USB port I installed the driver.
hippy
Ex-Staff (retired)
I think we all sympathise and understand the reasoning. I've bought cables which I've found I didn't need or could have got half as cheap, had to buy USB hubs as they became more numerous. I mark it up as an expense worth paying to have 'whatever it is' up and running immediately, no doubts or worries. If it all bursts into flames the supplier cannot lay the blame on my DIY cable.
On the other hand, if my cable doesn't work there's a lot of frustation and effort to get it going, with the knowledge that if I do something really silly or stupid that could be a very expensive mistake. I might save some money, but it can cost me in time and frustration, and costs others trying to solve my problems. They have to give up time to help which they could use otherwise.
That's not to say people aren't prepared to help, or that one has to buy recommended cables, it's just the, sometimes unconsidered, other side of the coin.
I'm a bit confused as to how you will be wiring your PICAXE up and what you'll be using for a cable. I've found the AXE027 cable to be pretty distinctive with its 3.5mm jack connector.
I cut sticky address labels to size and wrap round on themselves as a tag / flag on each end to indicate which cables are what.
Re just wired up my data cable, dug out my old USB 2 serial dongle and got things working (sorta)
what is "sorta"? Did it download a program or error? And if it downloaded, have you got a led to flash yet? We are keenly awaiting the Eureka! moment.
Ok, if you really don't want another USB dongle thingy, and you are really serious about picaxe programming, why not get an old PC eg about 1Ghz for free or for next to nothing from your local computer store. Older PCs have real serial D9 plugs on the back. I put the word out some years ago I would take old PCs from friends/family, and I've got a pile of 5 now that have XP and have real serial ports, so if my current "Picaxe PC" dies I've got lots of spares. Olders PCs are plenty fast enough for picaxe programming, especially if you unload all the bloatware that PCs tend to accumulate.
But you may find the AXE027 becomes the most popular USB device on your PC
what is "sorta"? Did it download a program or error? And if it downloaded, have you got a led to flash yet? We are keenly awaiting the Eureka! moment.
Ok, if you really don't want another USB dongle thingy, and you are really serious about picaxe programming, why not get an old PC eg about 1Ghz for free or for next to nothing from your local computer store. Older PCs have real serial D9 plugs on the back. I put the word out some years ago I would take old PCs from friends/family, and I've got a pile of 5 now that have XP and have real serial ports, so if my current "Picaxe PC" dies I've got lots of spares. Olders PCs are plenty fast enough for picaxe programming, especially if you unload all the bloatware that PCs tend to accumulate.
But you may find the AXE027 becomes the most popular USB device on your PC
slimplynth
Senior Member
It definitely will be, if upgrading to a nice shiny new laptop/Asus etc that doesn't come with a serial port.But you may find the AXE027 becomes the most popular USB device on your PC
I would buy one just for loyalties sake to Rev-Ed, my Fiat probably wouldn't work as well :d with a Renault gear box and I wouldn't be surprised (though amused) at any mechanic I called to take a look at why my car wouldn't work - sorry rubbish analogy - just had 5 minutes to burn :d
BeanieBots
Moderator
Not such a bad analogy slimplynth.
We spend a lot of time here helping people to get 3rd party products to work so that they can save a few pence.
We spend a lot of time here helping people to get 3rd party products to work so that they can save a few pence.
blame the postman. the subject of the topic here is "what to start building *before* my picaxe arrives". dug out the USB2serial and made sure XP saw it, checked the firmware to see if it was one that a previous post said should work, made sure the soldering iron heated up, made sure my eyes could still read the numbers on a DB9(then I saw the picture on another post), then correctly soldered phone wires (22awg solid) without shorts. my guestimate is that the 14M starter kit will arive about wed next week.
what I could do is fire up hyperterm, send FF repeatedly and see if I get voltage on the TX line, and then see if it is 5 volts or if it is current driven.
Dude, sparkfun sells USB cables for $25, and they are a lot less space consuming. yes, i get your point. MY point was I had all the bits (supposedly) to build the equivalent of the USB cable, so I can spend the $25 on more picaxe stuff. I need LESS stuff around, or more SPACE.....
not unless it can do double duty and program my yaseu VX5R, which is the reason I gor the USB2serial adapter last year.But you may find the AXE027 becomes the most popular USB device on your PC
Aha!
"...the subject of the topic here is "what to start building *before* my picaxe arrives". "
and
"..or more SPACE....."
Answer: A bigger workshop!
Seriously though, it's impossible to answer.. what to build?
But a thoroughly checked out board into which you stick your PICaxe would be my choice.
I would also have ordered a couple of the cheaper project boards.
The initial download is always satisfying (ooer Matron), and this is a common stumbling block with many who just throw the PICAXE into a hairy breadboard and wonder why it just sits there smelling.
"...the subject of the topic here is "what to start building *before* my picaxe arrives". "
and
"..or more SPACE....."
Answer: A bigger workshop!
Seriously though, it's impossible to answer.. what to build?
But a thoroughly checked out board into which you stick your PICaxe would be my choice.
I would also have ordered a couple of the cheaper project boards.
The initial download is always satisfying (ooer Matron), and this is a common stumbling block with many who just throw the PICAXE into a hairy breadboard and wonder why it just sits there smelling.
(AXE027 only working on one USB port)
Talking of which, I thought I once read somewhere that Pics actually use TTL levels? if so could a USB-TTL adaptor be used for programming a Picaxe?
I find this somewhat odd it'll only work on the first USB port the software was installed for, on the same laptop I've installed drivers for a USB-TTL adaptor for programming Zigbee modules at work and it installed ok on each of the 3 serial ports, each USB port gives a different COM port number so that more than one adaptor can be plugged in at the same time.
Talking of which, I thought I once read somewhere that Pics actually use TTL levels? if so could a USB-TTL adaptor be used for programming a Picaxe?
Mycroft2152
Senior Member
BB,Not such a bad analogy slimplynth.
We spend a lot of time here helping people to get 3rd party products to work so that they can save a few pence.
It is not a matter of a few pence. It is more on the order of $15 to $20US!. That buys quite a few 08Ms.
Myc
not quite. see, the picaxe to me is just a tool, not a project in itself, so the workshop space is devoted to the main project the little joe 10
even then, I only have so much money, and building a bigger workshop takes moeny that could be used buying more picaxe chips
um, I ordered the starter kit for the 14m, so no hair there. only hair will be from the outputs for now, and those will be going to servos, so not much hair.
actually, iy looks like the project could be run on an 08m, but i wanted the extra pins in case i missed something, or want to add something.
well, I am asuming that USB to serial adapters don't change voltages, so it'll still be TTL, just that it will not drive anything beyond the 20ma range of RS-232.
i'll find out if it burns out my chip
luckily at $4 each I'd rather tinker than spend $25+sh for a proper cablewell.......I think something was missed by ALL here. Tater = new MEMBER <> newBY !
Since we know (especially me..) that the AXE027 is a GOOD buy (I had three) what is the man to build ? As per the original question ? I'm sure it is NOT a flashing LED...
I wanted to know if there were ant qualms about building you own AXE26. which we are still debating I guess
we'll find out when I burn out the chip(sooo optimistic)another post i made was about noise issues in driving the picaxe and servos from the same battery, sounds possible so far(i'll need to dig out my servos)
one more thing that'll eventually be needed is interfacing with a GPS. that can wait as i don't have one handy, and everyone keep outbidding me on eBay
and yeah, the flashing LED will be the first circuit built when I get the starter kit, as that will be the only thing to tell me which loop of the program is running at any time(to debug bad servo motors and such)
but thats all I am expecting out of this 14m I think. I dont think i want to have it become an altimeter for deployment controls, or if I do that'll be another picaxe project.
good anology, except i *have* put a chevy engine in a ford car, and had it work quite well.
just depends on you level of skill, your open mindedness, and how well you can percieve your environment.
a really big hammer helps too
I checked out your Little Joe website. Tee Hee. I clicked on the "Top Rated" photos and up came a picture of four delightful young ladies standing next to your rocket ship. http://www.littlejoeproject.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=special&sorting=rating&Itemid=4
I also saw a picture of a rather large rocket in your house. Are you *sure* you don't have room for a few more picaxes??
Anyway, there are lots of ways to build the download cable. What I have are three PCs with standard D9 serial ports on the back with a number of different styles of download plugs all homemade. They all work fine. But what I also have are four USB to serial adaptors of various brands (but all from one country) and not one of them can program a picaxe. This is why I support getting the AXE027 (or getting an old PC).
Anyway, if you have a USB to serial thingy but no picaxes as yet, try making a loopback cable by getting a D9 female socket. Join pins 7 and 8. Join pins 1,4 and 6. Join pins 2 and 3. Now fire up hyperterminal and things you type should appear on the screen (works for all settings, all baud rates and hardware/software/no handshaking and 0,1,2 stop bits and either parity).
Re a 14M and an altimeter and GPS and radio transmitter, the 14M is a cunning little beastie. It might indeed be possible to do all those things with one chip. But no matter if it can't because the nifty thing about the picaxe series is that if a smaller chip runs out of pins or code space, you can port everything over to a bigger chip with very little fuss.
Re well, I am asuming that USB to serial adapters don't change voltages, so it'll still be TTL
I guess sooner or later someone has to explain this. USB to serial adaptors DO change voltages. And no, those voltages are not TTL. And picaxes can cope with RS232 voltage levels, but only in certain circumstances, ie with a special combination of two resistors and only on some pins.
TTL is 0V and 5V. Serial data signals with True polarity running at TTL are resting at 5V, and go to 0V when data goes through.
RS232 voltages are minus 12V resting and go to +12V when data goes through. 0V is not a valid RS232 voltage (RS232 voltages must be either >3V or less than -3V).
There are chips called max232 chips that change 0V/5V to -12/+12V. But you don't need them, because the picaxe can handle -12/+12V as long as it has the 10k and 22k resistors on the programmnig pins.
A 10k and 22k resistor is a lot cheaper than a max232 16pin chip and four 1uF capacitors.
I also saw a picture of a rather large rocket in your house. Are you *sure* you don't have room for a few more picaxes??
Anyway, there are lots of ways to build the download cable. What I have are three PCs with standard D9 serial ports on the back with a number of different styles of download plugs all homemade. They all work fine. But what I also have are four USB to serial adaptors of various brands (but all from one country) and not one of them can program a picaxe. This is why I support getting the AXE027 (or getting an old PC).
Anyway, if you have a USB to serial thingy but no picaxes as yet, try making a loopback cable by getting a D9 female socket. Join pins 7 and 8. Join pins 1,4 and 6. Join pins 2 and 3. Now fire up hyperterminal and things you type should appear on the screen (works for all settings, all baud rates and hardware/software/no handshaking and 0,1,2 stop bits and either parity).
Re a 14M and an altimeter and GPS and radio transmitter, the 14M is a cunning little beastie. It might indeed be possible to do all those things with one chip. But no matter if it can't because the nifty thing about the picaxe series is that if a smaller chip runs out of pins or code space, you can port everything over to a bigger chip with very little fuss.
Re well, I am asuming that USB to serial adapters don't change voltages, so it'll still be TTL
I guess sooner or later someone has to explain this. USB to serial adaptors DO change voltages. And no, those voltages are not TTL. And picaxes can cope with RS232 voltage levels, but only in certain circumstances, ie with a special combination of two resistors and only on some pins.
TTL is 0V and 5V. Serial data signals with True polarity running at TTL are resting at 5V, and go to 0V when data goes through.
RS232 voltages are minus 12V resting and go to +12V when data goes through. 0V is not a valid RS232 voltage (RS232 voltages must be either >3V or less than -3V).
There are chips called max232 chips that change 0V/5V to -12/+12V. But you don't need them, because the picaxe can handle -12/+12V as long as it has the 10k and 22k resistors on the programmnig pins.
A 10k and 22k resistor is a lot cheaper than a max232 16pin chip and four 1uF capacitors.
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you mean this one?
ha! you saw the 1/6th scale, here is the one i need the pics for (center one)
just did the simple one inthe book. loopback cable? my poor eyes! my unsteady hands! I'll wait till I get the picaxe and see if it doesnt work(should be next week wed)
and yeah, I could go to the next size chip, BUT, then all the pinouts get mucked up. but yeah, program should port no problem.
yeah, i thought there was also current limits on it, but i am probably wrong.
(serial & TTL)
I think I've been having one of those "can't see the wood for the trees" moments when thinking about TTL, because over the past couple of years I've literally lost count of the amount of max232 chips & 0603 0.1uf capacitors I've soldered at work. Someone else does all the the circuit designing and I get the job of building the prototypes to make sure they work as intended before whole batches are made by machines. It's an interesting job as I've been slowly learning about what chips do what jobs and what components they need to run (really helps when I get a new board & circuit diagram to study+build) and one of the boards I've made a lot of is a serial to TTL adaptor, and I've just now realised if I put one of those boards with a USB-TTL adaptor I'll end up with a USB-serial adaptor which will work perfectly on all the USB ports of my laptop
Just recently I've been getting into hot air soldering, those boards now look like they were commercially manufactured, especially now I can solder 0.5mm pitch chips and chips with no legs at all
*smacks forehead*
I think I've been having one of those "can't see the wood for the trees" moments when thinking about TTL, because over the past couple of years I've literally lost count of the amount of max232 chips & 0603 0.1uf capacitors I've soldered at work. Someone else does all the the circuit designing and I get the job of building the prototypes to make sure they work as intended before whole batches are made by machines. It's an interesting job as I've been slowly learning about what chips do what jobs and what components they need to run (really helps when I get a new board & circuit diagram to study+build) and one of the boards I've made a lot of is a serial to TTL adaptor, and I've just now realised if I put one of those boards with a USB-TTL adaptor I'll end up with a USB-serial adaptor which will work perfectly on all the USB ports of my laptop
Just recently I've been getting into hot air soldering, those boards now look like they were commercially manufactured, especially now I can solder 0.5mm pitch chips and chips with no legs at all