Solar powered Pond pump

inglewoodpete

Senior Member
I hope that poor eclectic can tolerate our hijacking of his thread. As a moderator he has the power...

In a slightly more serious vein than some of the precious posts, I have often day-dreamed of using a solar-powered heat pump to heat (winter) and chill (summer) an underfloor bladder of water/brine. A second heat pump would then utilise this potential (temperature) difference to heat and cool the house. The house has enough suitable roof-space to generate about 18MW/h over the summer months, so I think there would be sufficient input energy. The overall installation cost would be the scary part!
 

papaof2

Senior Member
If your daily driving is in the range "max of 30 planned miles", a Leaf might work ;-)

30+ years ago, my commute was right at 2 miles one way. A Leaf with the basic home charger would have been a good choice then - but there it just wasn't available...
 

AllyCat

Senior Member
Hi,

Electric Vehicle batteries are very dangerous, with complex safety features, but it appears that the basic Leaf has a 24 kWh battery (probably now quite degraded) which can be replaced by their 40 kWh unit, at a cost approaching $10k. Also, the Leaf is said to be "outdated", but if that avoids a single touchscreen and deep menu structure for the driver to control, then I 'd be very happy. :) And it does have the (relatively unusual) capability to feed power into an external load such as your house, for example overnight when there is no sun. A Domestic PV battery pack such as the Tesla Powerwall costs around $10k and stores only 13.5 kWh.

Heat Pumps and Air Conditioners use basically the same mechanism, so a single unit can actually perform both functions, but usually in the form of "air in - air out". That's needs complex/expensive ducting for heating/cooling a house, particularly retro-fitted, but is very simple for a car! So I'm astounded that for many EV's (where energy availability is obviously critical) a Heat Pump heating combined with the Air Conditioning system is "Optional" or even Not Available. :(

I don't know about a "bladder" but in UK, Underfloor Heating is becoming more common, in the form of warm water pipes (preferably) or electric heating cables (not). Particularly in association with a Heat Pump which gives relatively lower temperature water (compared with a boiler) and thus needs a larger area of radiator/convection/conduction surfaces than our normal (wall-mounted) hot water radiators. I have my reservations about a floor's "controllability", i.e. thermal inertia preventing the use of heating only "when required", but at least "Hot Air Rises" (e.g. from the floor). For a cooling system, might not the bladder/pipes need to be on/at the ceiling/roof ?

The problem in the UK is that we may use almost 90% of our home energy during the (4 - 6) "Winter" months (e.g. 15 MWh from gas heating) with around 3 MWh electricity consumed fairly constantly during the year (little/no air conditioning required). But UK-located PV panels generate only around 10% of their yearly output (say 300 - 500 kWh for a house) in the three winter months. Thus the "solution" appears to be wind generation (which is totally unrealistic for the vast majority of people/homes to do locally) combined with Heat Pumps (requiring "only" a doubling of the electricity supply infrastructure). Then an enormous amount of electricity storage for the days or a week when the wind doesn't blow. So the Holy Grail might be thermal storage (under buildings) from summer until winter, but I suspect that would be a major constructional addition even for a "new build" property.

We are seriously considering replacing our Gas boiler with a Heat Pump, but need to "improve" the house insulation (or at least its "Energy Performance Certificate" ;) ) to qualify for the Government Grant, which is (IMHO) excessively generous (> 50% of cost) but ludicrously under-funded (~ 1% of the housing stock). But I'd better not get onto the (enormous) deficiencies of the EPC. :(

Cheers, Alan.
 
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julianE

Senior Member
Also, the Leaf is said to be "outdated", but if that avoids a single touchscreen and deep menu structure for the driver to control, then I 'd be very happy.
I can't get myself to buy a new car because i hate most all the "modern" features. I wish they made a light electric car with thin tires and adequate performance, i have no need for sub 8 second 0 to 60 times. i had no idea batteries were that expensive does not look like i'll be driving an electric car any time soon at best i'll get a hybrid.
 

erco

Senior Member
Timing is everything. I bought my 2014 leaf in 2017 for $6500 with 30k miles from a private party. The same car now with 60k+ miles sells for $11,000 or more. Not worth that much IMO, just shows how desperate people are.

Not a great only car but a fantastic second car/commuter/runabout. Best car I've owned, push the button and go. Maintenance? New tires and brake fluid flush.

That said, I'm currently rebuilding my very first car, a 1967 Corvair, and I can't wait to drive that gross polluter while I can still buy gas!
 

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julianE

Senior Member
I bought my 2014 leaf in 2017 for $6500 with 30k miles from a private party. The same car now with 60k+ miles sells for $11,000 or more

An electric bike can cost $2500, $6500 is an absurd bargain. Love the corsair, nothing like a mid engine.
 

erco

Senior Member
An electric bike can cost $2500, $6500 is an absurd bargain. Love the corsair, nothing like a mid engine.
Agreed. And if you like mid-engined corsairs, you'll love my rear-engined Corvair. :) :) :) It will have several Picaxes in it.

Likewise IWP, apologies to eclectic for derailing his thread.
 

eclectic

Moderator
Agreed. And if you like mid-engined corsairs, you'll love my rear-engined Corvair. :) :) :) It will have several Picaxes in it.

Likewise IWP, apologies to eclectic for derailing his thread.
No problem. :)
The discussion is most entertaining.

Back in June, I installed two panels c/w controllers,
nominally 120 and 170 Watts.
Two freecycle Car batteries provide storage.

Two small pumps have been running 24/7 ever since.

I now await the dreaded British Winter.

e
 

papaof2

Senior Member
Just move your solar panels up above 10,000 feet and maybe back into sunshine?
That seems to be the standard answer when you talk to solar installers about clouds, rain, snow...
But if you know a bit about weather, that altitude is not useful - maybe 10 times that height?
 

inglewoodpete

Senior Member
Just move your solar panels up above 10,000 feet and maybe back into sunshine?
That seems to be the standard answer when you talk to solar installers about clouds, rain, snow...
But if you know a bit about weather, that altitude is not useful - maybe 10 times that height?
A great solution but it would not would not work in Australia - our solar panels are metric.;)
 

papaof2

Senior Member
All measurements can be converted to some other base. Kilometers per hour could be expressed as furlongs per fortnight but that conversion probably isn't available on your phone ;-)
 

eclectic

Moderator
I am definitely height-challenged here.

My panels are 2 metres above the ground,
but the ground is only 6 metres above Sea-level.

e
 
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