Right sony Remote

PhilHornby

Senior Member
#41
That's good news!

I was reading some of the comments about this project (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2319872/comments) and lack of power from the motors is mentioned a few times.

It seems tightness of the components is to blame - with a little trimming and sanding helping things along. (The tightness seems to be the price that is paid, for a project that goes together without needing screws or other fasteners).
 

zneb

Active member
#43
Well now it don't work again .I took it out to show my grandson and brother how good it was working. but It didn't work. I redownloaded the program and reput code in remote but nothing helped, the batteries test good . Anyone else ever have a problem like this ? Is there a special way to decode the remote before you enter code? I would think My problem has to be with remote and IR receiver.,
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
#44
If you have a LED then you can flash that to indicate if any IR is being received no matter what its code or protocol.

If the LED flashes when used with any TV remote then you know the receiver circuit is working. If it then doesn't work with the remote you want to use it's that which has an issue.
Code:
Symbol IR_PIN = pin?.?
Symbol LED    = ?.?
Do
  Do : Loop until IR_PIN = 0 ; Low when IR received
  High LED : Pause 250
  Low  LED : Pause 250
Loop
 

Hemi345

Senior Member
#45
Unless I'm short on space, I use sertxd all over my program to indicate what the program is currently doing. Then later on, if I encounter an error, I can connect the programming cable and watch the PE Serial Terminal to see where it's having an issue.

I would use that in addition to the LED hippy mentioned. In your programming, use sertxd to display the value of the IR code received right after the IRin command, like:
Code:
sertxd("Received: ",#IR_code,cr,lf)
But if it was working when you put it away and now it's not, check wires, battery voltage, etc. Sounds like a hardware problem and not software.
 
#46
Did you accidentally press some keys when you picked up the remote?

Try switching your phone on, then go to "Photo" or whatever.

Point the remote at your phone then press some buttons .

Do you see any flashes?

I have just tried this and t works on both remotes I've tried.

e
 

zneb

Active member
#47
Did you accidentally press some keys when you picked up the remote?

Try switching your phone on, then go to "Photo" or whatever.

Point the remote at your phone then press some buttons .

Do you see any flashes?

I have just tried this and t works on both remotes I've tried.

e
Yes I saw Flashes Does that mean its working
 

Hemi345

Senior Member
#49
Make sure you have your remote set to control the correct device! If you used the "TV" device on your remote to previously control your tank, make sure you press the "TV" button (below the Set button), before you start trying to control your tank just in case the remote is currently configured to control a VCR or something else. Also check that the "TV" device programmed is the default Sony TV code, 00000. See page 16 of the user's manual to check the code.
 

zneb

Active member
#50
Unless I'm short on space, I use sertxd all over my program to indicate what the program is currently doing. Then later on, if I encounter an error, I can connect the programming cable and watch the PE Serial Terminal to see where it's having an issue.

I would use that in addition to the LED hippy mentioned. In your programming, use sertxd to display the value of the IR code received right after the IRin command, like:
Code:
sertxd("Received: ",#IR_code,cr,lf)
But if it was working when you put it away and now it's not, check wires, battery voltage, etc. Sounds like a hardware problem and not software.
I tested the voltage and on the logics side I only have 2.8 volts that might be the problem
 

zneb

Active member
#51
Unless I'm short on space, I use sertxd all over my program to indicate what the program is currently doing. Then later on, if I encounter an error, I can connect the programming cable and watch the PE Serial Terminal to see where it's having an issue.

I would use that in addition to the LED hippy mentioned. In your programming, use sertxd to display the value of the IR code received right after the IRin command, like:
Code:
sertxd("Received: ",#IR_code,cr,lf)
But if it was working when you put it away and now it's not, check wires, battery voltage, etc. Sounds like a hardware problem and not software.
I only have 2.8 volts on logic side could that be the problem
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
#52
I only have 2.8 volts on logic side could that be the problem
Possibly. Where exactly on the logic side is this 2.8V ?

2.8V is about half of 5V so you could have a short between output pins or somewhere, something trying to pull things high and something else trying to pull things low. This can also happen when an input pin which is pulled high is actually configured as an output low.
 

zneb

Active member
#53
Possibly. Where exactly on the logic side is this 2.8V ?

2.8V is about half of 5V so you could have a short between output pins or somewhere, something trying to pull things high and something else trying to pull things low. This can also happen when an input pin which is pulled high is actually configured as an output low.
It's the whole left side of the B B Should be 4.5 V ,The right side Motor side is 5.5 should be 6 V
 

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
#54
It's the whole left side of the B B Should be 4.5 V ,The right side Motor side is 5.5 should be 6 V
It's not easy to figure out exactly what that means. It would probably be best to build a minimal breadboard circuit with just the PICAXE, download circuit, IR receiver, and power supply. Maybe a LED for diagnostics but SERTXD and the download cable should suffice.
 

zneb

Active member
#55
Here is a photo of the bread board. The top side is the logic side 2.6 V now, bottom is motor side 5.6 V now. These just show what I mean by two sides .some of the wires now are powered from top side.[Logics ]
 

Attachments

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
#56
Here is a photo of the bread board. The top side is the logic side 2.6 V now, bottom is motor side 5.6 V now. These just show what I mean by two sides .some of the wires now are powered from top side.[Logics ]
There is too much there for anyone without physical access to the hardware to really be able to tell what is going wrong.

The usual way of proceeding, if you cannot figure out what or where the fault is, would be to strip everything from the breadboard, then build it up one piece at a time, checking everything is right and as expected as you go.
 

zneb

Active member
#57
There is too much there for anyone without physical access to the hardware to really be able to tell what is going wrong.

The usual way of proceeding, if you cannot figure out what or where the fault is, would be to strip everything from the breadboard, then build it up one piece at a time, checking everything is right and as expected as you go.
I put in 3 new batteries and now it works .I guess 2.8 V is not enough to operate it. I've got to watch and see how far down the 4.5 V go's down before it quits. Thanks for all your input …...
 
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