How to control the motor in this project board?

westaust55

Moderator
Photos need to be clear. They are best taken perpendicular to the board.
Wiring needs to be neat so that folks can see exactly where each end connects and tidy enough so this folks can trace the wiring.

A shematic diagram as requested in the earlier post and as I asked you for in your other recent thread are the ideal way to see if you have all the components required and all is at least proposed to be Connected correctly.

There are a number of programs out there that help you draw a schematic.
DIPTrACE is one if you Google it that in free version can handle most projects at hobby level.
Others may recommend EagleCAD etc.
There are libraries on this forum for PICAXE chips and many other common components I'd you do a search.

Not sure if/which are MAC compatible.
 

westaust55

Moderator
@HarryLee,

You really must learn to provide some suitable information with your questions.

From your other thread we know you have an IR distance detection sensor.

But.....

What are the details of the motors?
Type- dc, unipolar stepper or bipolar stepper?
Motor data - voltage and current when operating (stall current can be good to know as well)
Are the motor needed to run in reverse as well -so sun the IR sensor detects an object the robot can back away.

The AXE020 board you have comes with a ULN2003 7-channel Darlington array chip and a socket for a L293D "H" bridge chip.
For dc motors running in one direction the ULN2003 may suffice If motor current is < 600 mA.
For unipolar stepper motors same applies for bi-directional operation via the ULN2003.

But for reversing dc motors and bipolar stepper motors you need the L293D chip - again subject to motor current rating.

Hope this is both helpful and allows you to realize we need more information to answer questions.
Otherwise it is like me asking "my car won't start. Why?"
 
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SAborn

Senior Member
I dont think Westy had his happy pill today :) but his comments are correct, that more information is needed.

I think the problem is its a eager school kid here trying to learn and build a project, that he do not have all the information for and a good understanding of electronics or picaxe.

I do agree better thought to photo taking would assist greatly, as we need to clearly see each connection and able to follow each wire from connection to connection.

Perhaps a link to the robot kit you have, and a list of what picaxe board and parts you have, might help fill in some gaps in information.
 

westaust55

Moderator
I also note that in various project photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/103505891807292457556/albums/5470124249476037841?banner=pwa

The ULN2003 has been replaced with a resistor array (the yellow "chip") for the PICAXE outputs and a L293D is installed.
The OP's photo has the L293D added but still has the Darlington array rather then the resistor array.

That website SteveT has given a link to even has example code snippets to test each section of the project out before moving on to "bigger' things such as getting it all together.
A contribution by a Lets Make Robots reader adds a more extensive program near the bottom of the web page.
 

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HarryLee

Member
Sorry folks, I really need to learn how to draw this, my bad :((( I am following the steps from the website: http://letsmakerobots.com/start , for the "yellow chip" I replaced it with a same name resistor array but it is black. I don't know if it makes a difference. the website is: https://solarbotics.com/product/28671/ , I followed all the steps from this web site but my robot moved really awkward and I am wondering how to control the speed of the motor... so... I am still figuring... but thanks for being patient with me :)))))))
 

HarryLee

Member
For the IR sensor, I figured out that I have to cut the female jumper head on my IR sensor, because I reversely connected V and Vout wires because of the sequence of my sensor..., they combined into one head with 3 holes for pins. That's why when I use MacAXEpad, there was no response when I put my hand in front of the sensor... I am afraid that already fried my sensor :((
 
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