One point that barely got touched (not instrumentation related, sorry) are the wheels. In general, larger wheels have smaller road resistance, so you want to use the largest wheels that are allowed. Also, I'd minimize the width, so if there is any chance road racing bicycle wheels can carry the weight, go for them instead of what you have right now (I weigh almost 100kg and by racing bike wheels had no problem with that for 15 years, so with your 4 wheels your total vehicle weight could be at least up to 200kg. Inflate them as hard as you can though). If you are not convinced, try racing a road bike against a mountain bike...
So in short, go for large, narrow wheels instead of the small, wide ones.
Second, Dr_Acula is right on saying that trying to go use a speed that allows you to go exactly 4 hours is the optimum strategy. Going faster only wastes unnecessary energy in wind resistance. It goes up quadratically.
So if you had only wind resistance and could go 4 hours at 10mph (40 miles total distance) until the battery goes flat, then if you drive 20mph instead you can only go for 1 hour - measly 20 miles total distance. In addition to that, I suspect even a lead-acid battery has less effective capacity at high discharge rate than it has at lower rates, but in this question I am not the expert.
There are secondary effects that make going slower even more attractive: Your motor produces less heat, so you need less cooling liquid - reduces the vehicle weight. In addition, if the motor is cooler, the resistance of its copper wiring is less, so you waste less energy in ohmic heating. Better use that energy to drive the wheels
Just my 2 cents
Wolfgang
Edited by - womai on 30/08/2007 20:55:21