Automatic Motorized Window Blinds Controller

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crndy52

New Member
I designed and built this PICAXE -08M based controller to automatically open my window blinds in the morning and close them in the evening. This practical, simple, and inexpensive project is a lot of fun to build and use. The "take it further" options I listed in the instructables should open some eyes to the mighty 08M microprocessor. This entire project can be built for less than $15.00. There is also an option to allow me to open and close my blinds using an old universal TV remote control programmed for a Sony TV. A full set of construction plans, photos, videos, and the PICAXE program can be found at the link below.


Maybe this project will open the eyes of some of those "blue board" fanatics. Especially when they realize that they can build two of these projects for what just one of their controllers alone cost. I really can't see why anyone would want to put a $30.00 microcontroller in every project they build. :confused:


Choose you this day which you will use,
but as for me and my projects,
we will stick with PICAXE.


http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-A-Motorized-Window-Blinds-Controller-For-Les/​

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slimplynth

slimplynth

Senior Member
I like it :D I'd had the same idea, so cheers for the parts listing and useful insights. On using the IR to have dual control but getting around the system locking up, could this be achieved by increasing the budget, having an extra 08m in there.. purely to monitor the IR recieved then sending an appropriate signal to the master 08m? Wish i had the parts now to have a play, oh yeah i'd need some blinds too.. IKEA it is :D
 
hippy

hippy

Technical Support
Staff member
You can do IR control and LDR monitoring at the same time but the INFRAIN command cannot be used. Instead it's necessary to bit-bang in the IR codes. If there's a valid one respond to it, if no IR received or an invalid code ignore it, check the LDR and then wait for another potential IR command ...

http://www.hippy.freeserve.co.uk/picaxeir.htm#Bit_Banged_Decoding

Instead of ...

- PULSIN IR_INPUT, 0, w0
- IF w0 < MIN_PULSIN THEN BruteForceInfraIn2

Which waits until IR is received, chenge that to ...

- PULSIN IR_INPUT, 0, w0
- IF w0 < MIN_PULSIN THEN NoIrReceived

Or similar.
 
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crndy52

New Member
Thanks

The blue board is a reference to the Arduino. For some reason, all officially recognized Arduino circuit boards must be blue. It is a great microprocessor but it is also expensive at $30.00 per board. In my opinion its use in most projects is overkill. It is sort of like putting a 8 cylinder gasoline engine on a push-type lawnmower. To each their own but I cannot afford to put a $30.00 microcontroller in every project I build.

Thanks Hippy for the code suggestion to incorporate the IR control into the project without locking the whole thing up. I am going to give it a try and hopefully will be apending the project. I know nothing about the PULSIN command but hopefully I can figure it out without too much problem.
 
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Mycroft2152

Senior Member
Excellent project! Very practical and more than just flashing LEDs with a PICAXE.

One suggestion is to consider some steps to minimize power consumption from the batteries. There have been many threads on the forum.

Some suggestions are:

Sleep mode, check the light levels once per minute.
Use the extra pin to control the power going to the photocell, turn it on only when needed
Enable brown out protection
Reduce the clock speed through a poke command to 32 KHz.

Relatively speaking these are only minor improvements in the power comnsumption as compared the motors.

But any little bit helps.

Myc

The "blue" people are novices and haven't seen beyond the need for an all in one board. The chip istelf can be used similarly to a PICAXE 28X1.
 
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crndy52

New Member
Thanks Mycroft2152

Thanks for the power savings suggestions. They could really help out on a solar powered unit I am making to use on a window on the other side of my house that gets direct sunlight. I think checking the light level every 5 minutes would be sufficent as it does not increase or decrease at a very fast rate. Anyone have an idea of just how much of a current decrease these options might offer?
 
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Mycroft2152

Senior Member
crndy52 said:
Thanks for the power savings suggestions. They could really help out on a solar powered unit I am making to use on a window on the other side of my house that gets direct sunlight. I think checking the light level every 5 minutes would be sufficent as it does not increase or decrease at a very fast rate. Anyone have an idea of just how much of a current decrease these options might offer?
Click to expand...
The current usage for the electronics only can drop form the milliamp level to the microamp level.

Power reduction in cicuits is an art and scievnce in itself. there have been some excellent discussions here on the forum.

Myc
 
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Mycroft2152

Senior Member
crndy52 said:
Thanks for the power savings suggestions. They could really help out on a solar powered unit I am making to use on a window on the other side of my house that gets direct sunlight. I think checking the light level every 5 minutes would be sufficent as it does not increase or decrease at a very fast rate. Anyone have an idea of just how much of a current decrease these options might offer?
Click to expand...
The current usage for the electronics only can drop form the milliamp level to the microamp level.

Power reduction in cicuits is an art and science in itself. there have been some excellent discussions here on the forum.

Myc
 
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Sifu

New Member
Sorry to bring up an old topic but does anyone have a higher res pic of the circuit diagram? The picture via the website is too low in res to read anything and I cant make out what is what.

Thanks in advance
 
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