Is it a capacitor?-08 proto board

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olden

Member
I have found out of course that it is C1 9100nF (next to IC1) but this is my 1st time putting it together with the basic knowledge of size markings & colour codes. But on close study the marking on the component was '(black dot)1k63' and on the board itself a triangular "arrow" next to the black dot end to the component, (I've already soldered it in), whoops! Can anybody clarify this for me please.http://www.picaxeforum.co.uk/images/smilies/eek.gif
:eek:
 
O

olden

Member
olden said:
I have found out of course that it is C1 9100nF (next to IC1) but this is my 1st time putting it together with the basic knowledge of size markings & colour codes. But on close study the marking on the component was '(black dot)1k63' and on the board itself a triangular "arrow" next to the black dot end to the component, (I've already soldered it in), whoops! Can anybody clarify this for me please.http://www.picaxeforum.co.uk/images/smilies/eek.gif
:eek:
Click to expand...
Made an error, removed the '9' from capacitor, should only read " C1 100nF"
 
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moxhamj

New Member
100nF is also 0.1uF which is a standard capacitor that goes across the power supply of chips. I use one for each picaxe and one for every 2-3 digital chips. I bought 1000 once when they were 1c each and am still working through them. These caps are non polarised.
 
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olden

Member
Dr_Acula said:
100nF is also 0.1uF which is a standard capacitor that goes across the power supply of chips. I use one for each picaxe and one for every 2-3 digital chips. I bought 1000 once when they were 1c each and am still working through them. These caps are non polarised.
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Yes I understand that but I thrown by the '1k63' on the component in stead of 100nF or .iuF. Is that the binary code? if it is then I must admit I'm from the group that don't know, but I'm willing to learn. (my brain is beginning to hurt)
 
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moxhamj

New Member
That is a strange marking. There are some odd things written on capacitors, sometimes in writing that only an ant could read. I find that a multimeter (LCR meter) with a capacitance and inductance range is extremely useful.
 
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olden

Member
Dr_Acula said:
That is a strange marking. There are some odd things written on capacitors, sometimes in writing that only an ant could read. I find that a multimeter (LCR meter) with a capacitance and inductance range is extremely useful.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip
 
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Dippy

Moderator
Markings can be weird and confusing and sometimes the only solution is to read the Data Sheet.

I have some polyester capacitors all from same Manuf some with "100n" written and some with "104" - also 100nF = 10 x 10 to the power of 4 pF i.e. 100000pf = 100nF.
And from other manufacturers they may say "0.1u"

It's all done to keep you on your toes and is obviously a Government conspiracy :)

Other markings may indicate AC or DC voltage , Tolerance code, packaging code.... ad nauseum.

It can be a pain, but when you are choosing your own components get the Data Sheet and see for yourself. Sometimes it can be even more of a pain when receiving anonymous coponents and you don't konw the Manuf.

I haven't seen the PCB for this kit so I can't comment on markings.

Polyesters aren't polarised (unless someone can find a manufacturer on Mars that does just to prove me wrong)

(Even some resistors colour bands can be confusing depending on the body colour and lighting. Buy resistors in bandoliers and mark the bandolier.)
 
hippy

hippy

Ex-Staff (retired)
One thing that is well worth getting is a set of those DIY plastic drawers which usually hold screws or nails but are also great for holding components. Most of these can clip together so you can build up a large component store. Labelled logically ( increasing base values down, magnitude increasing to the right ) it's then very easy to quickly find what you need.

Doesn't help though if you get a kit and you're not sure which component is which but comparison with 'stock' sometimes helps.

I pulled my drawer of 100nF and looked at the markings, and that varies depending on the colour of the cap ( no idea if that's significant in itself or simply different manufacturers ) ...

Yellow : 100nK63
Red : 0.1/63
Blue : u1K63

The black dot on yours is probably the decimal point; .1K63

I've not found any explanation for the "xKyy" coding, I'd guess K is the tolerance and 6V3 or 63V its voltage rating.

I also find some resistor colour bands to be confusing, especially brown and orange on 'blue resistors', and usually always measure them just to be sure.

My worst hates are 4.7uF electrolytics where the decimal point is sometimes impossible to see and the spacing makes it hard to tell if there should be a dot there or not.
 
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Dippy

Moderator
Yes, I wish they'd all adopt the 4u7 style for electros.
I just noiced I have some other 100nF polyesters marked "u1" from a manufacturer who, in a previous batch, marked them "100n".

It's learned one thing... that I seem to have hundreds of 100nF polyester capacitors.
 
O

olden

Member
Thanks, I'm not as dumb as I thought. I think your right, it is a conspiracy.
Anyway now I can test it.
I have purchased cabinets with drawers for storing my 1st collection of resistors, capacitors, etc. It took me ages to get them in the right drawers as you say it is very difficult to see the colour bands on some of them.
I've finished my 1st 08 board and ready for testing. http://www.picaxeforum.co.uk/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
:D
 
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Dippy

Moderator
Hey, you'll be getting a Dymo/Brother labeller next...
(For the drawers I mean as it is tricky wrapping the labels round a component:))
 
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BeanieBots

Moderator
Everything you ever wanted to know about caps including markings can be found here:-
http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/

As pointed out by Hippy, I would think your "1k63" is actually either ".1k63" or "u1k63".
This is where a little 'experience' comes in.
Firstly, that component should be 100nF or 0.1uF depending if you use UK or US notation.
100nF caps are typically 63v working voltage.
The "k" is an indication of the tollerance.
 
O

olden

Member
Dippy said:
Hey, you'll be getting a Dymo/Brother labeller next...
(For the drawers I mean as it is tricky wrapping the labels round a component:))
Click to expand...
You mean I should the labelled the drawers? Don't you hate it when that happens, I've wasted 72 hours non stop labelling every resistor
 
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