Hello John,
I think I will start answering your questions with an overview of the machine. Most of the parts can be bought from Ebay or Banggood. I think the only parts you can't order are the aluminum plates and 8MM rods that are drilled and tapped. All the electronics are readily available and cheap.
The controller is based on an Arduino Uno with a CNC Shield Ver 3.0 . The CNC Shield has sockets for 4 stepper driver boards on it. The machine only uses 3. The software that runs on the Arduino Uno is called GRBL. The Arduino has to be connected to a PC through the USB port. It shows up as a Com port(serial) on a Windows machine. The GRBL software on the Arduino accepts text called G-code from the PC over the serial port. G-code consist of simple commands like G1X2.0F5.0 or M3S5000 . A program like UniversalGCodeSender on the PC sends the G-codes to the Arduino. The GRBL software interpets the commands and makes the machine move. So your pcb design has to be turned into G-code programs.
The method I have been using is:
Design the board with Eagle, although Diptrace would work, and export the Gerber and drill files.
Use the Flatcam program, suggested by marzan, to turn those files into G-code files.
Use UniversalGCodeSender to serve the files to the Arduino. UniversalGCodeSender also lets you see the milling path before you send it to the machine.
Rick, what parts did you have to replace to get the machine to work properly - and why?
The machine came with 24V and 12V power supplies. From watching Youtube videos, most people run the spindle motor on 24V and the stepper motors on 12V. I run the steppers and spindle motor from the 24V supply so the steppers have more torque. I was afraid the initial current surge from starting the spindle motor with the included relay would damage the 24V supply, so I added a manual speed control. That allows me to ramp up the motor speed and avoid the current spike. These changes may not be necessary. Try the original set up and see if it works.
I ended up replacing all three lead screws to reduce the backlash. The original ones had about .3mm of backlash and the replacements had about .08mm. I also ordered some antibacklash nuts for the leadscrews but they were poor quality and wouldn't thread onto the screws. Getting this cheap stuff from China is iffy.
The original stepper motors were 400 steps per revolution and aren't very powerful. I replaced the X axis stepper motor with a 200 steps per revolution motor that had more torque. I'm still using the originals on the Y and Z axis. One of the problems with the machine is you seem to get whatever was cheapest that day. I think the quality can vary wildly. Since the X axis stepper takes more current, I replaced it's A4988 driver board on the CNC Shield with a DRV8825.
I also added aluminum angle to support the vertical 2020 extrusions. I also added an accurate homing circuit so I could return to a known point after power down (crashes).
I looked at a lot of youtube videos and google search results about this machine and it seems overwhelming. I know zero about Arduino. Would I have to get into programming of a new type of micro controller to use this machine?
It is Arduino based. Even if the software comes preloaded on the board, you may want to update to a newer version later, so you should accept learning to use the Arduino IDE. You don't have to learn to program an Arduino in C++, just load the program onto the board. It's not that hard. You will probably have to configure the GRBL software through UnivrsalGCodeSender for your machine. That's not hard either.
I've read that it's possible to take the data file that is generated by Diptrace, convert it somehow, and then load it into the machine's controller. I have quite a few saved Diptrace PCB files and this would be ideal - Convert them, load them up and away we go to manufacture and / or drill a PCB. How big of a learning curve involved here?
The overview at the top of the post describes my toolchain. It is not as bad as learning a new programming language but it takes a little time to learn each step. Exporting the gerber and drill files from Diptrace should be a simple process. Flatcam is strange at first but makes sense after doing a couple of boards. UniversalGCodeSender is not a complicated program but using it to operate the machine requires some knowledge of how CNC machines and the GRBL program work. You will need to learn about the machines coordinate system and some some G-codes. Most of these things are not that hard but do require time to learn. The good news is you don't have to buy anything to try these out. Flatcam and UniversalGCodeSender are free. Flatcam is Python based and UniversalGCodeSender is Java based. You can Export your files from Diptrace and use Flatcam to create the G-code. Flatcam will show the tool paths. Then you can load them into UGS and see the tool paths also. There is a new version of UGS called UGS Platform.
https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender
You can also download the Arduino IDE which runs under Java.
Lastly, the price of this machine seems pretty good (currently about $260 Canadian and $25 shipping). I see mention of an EU plug and see no way to change that on the gearbest site. At first I thought they were talking about the AC input plug for the machine, but then I found a bit of stuff stating that a power supply (suggested 24V DC and at least 10A) would be required....
I'm using the single 24V 5A supply that came with the kit. It came with an EU cord. I just unplugged that cord and plugged in an IEC cord from a PC. I have an analog 12A current meter on mine and it barely moves. The only problem I've had with the supply is that it turns itself off when it doesn't have enough load. The supply you get could be completely different than mine.
So, if I were to order the beast, what else would I need to get it up and running?
Aside from the stuff listed above, drill bits, engraving bits, an end mill to level the bed, and patience. The parts from Banggood are Ok for this.
Lastly, would this be a good starting machine for a complete CNC newb?
The machine, if you can get it running, is probably the most affordable intoduction to CNC you can get. It is very basic in it's hardware, software and operation. That's why I bought it. It also has limited ability. You won't be cutting aluminum angle with it. It is sturdy enough to make pcb's though.
I don't want to gloss over the learning curve. Most of the steps aren't that hard but learning all of them requires a lot of time and commitment. Even after you get the machine going and are milling boards, problems will still pop up. Most of the trouble I have now is a result of bowed boards causing the milling not to be deep enough. That's the reason I added an accurate homing mechinism. So I could make another pass on the board, even after power down. I will try the board leveling feature of Chillipeppr, which is a browser based alternative to UGS, someday.
My big reservation about recommending you buy it is the roll of the dice you take with buying anything like this from China. It's one thing if your your $2 lcd display does't work, but this is a significant amount of money. If you should get it, I will be glad to help you as best I can. Keep in mind, I'm no expert at this.
Here 's a video of mine.
https://youtu.be/SozPf30nWsk
This guy does a couple of videos on building, modding and using the machine.
https://youtu.be/vm5llQCux2Y
Good luck,
Rick