For sale.Cold fusion reactor.Home made.Not working.$2000 ONO
- Thread starter 120ThingsIn20Years
- Start date
JoeFromOzarks
Senior Member
Another guy in Adelaide may be able to help
Hello 120 things,
Great subject line! ...I was expecting a homage to Dr's Flieschmann and Pons (spelling??).. all this for just $2K?-- Bargain.
I am located in Adl and may be able to help you.
Not sure how to contact you directly, does this forum support Personal Messaging?
I have a fair bit of experience in using the Picaxe and some other micro's to control and monitor things, all the way from 40 odd lines of code with an 08- to needing the 40 pin devices to fit in all the wild ideas and drive all the wiggly bits.
I design high end valve audio gear and have 30+ years electronic and IT experience.
(Just establishing credence, not wanting to sound like a smart-alec.)
You are on the right track in using the Picaxe, it is a piece of cake to knock-up a prototype and the programming tool Progedit, with the debug and simulation features makes life a whole lot easier than trying to do it in assembler or C with a OOC programmer.
The sensor inputs and power control interfaces are where most people run into problems with projects like this.
It is one thing for it to work on the test bench with a nice clean supply, another thing entirely for it to work reliably amid the spikes and glitches that fill the real world.
If you wish to make things as painless as possible, then I would recommend a few things, most of which have been alluded to by the other contributors.
1. Choose someone to help you that can explain how and why in terms that make sense... If the explanation is overly ropey, you are probably on the wrong tram.
2. Clearly define the basic functionality and hardware etc and get that working before you try to "tart it up". The classic "mud map" is a great starting point. A golden rule of design is that things should be as simple as possible and no simpler...As soon as you get a complex solution to a problem working, a simpler solution becomes obvious.
3. I do not wish to advise counter to SA Born, but unless you absolutely know that the final device can be implemented using the entry-level PICs, use one of the higher spec devices, like a 28x2 or 40x2. They will have space for more lines of code, more inputs and outputs etc and the extra features never go astray. The extra cost of the chips is insignificant.
You will also learn so much more that way. If you modularise the hardware by treating the PIC board as a black box, then it is easy to upgrade the functionality.. Hint, buy at least 2 PICs, if you are learning as you go, there may be a few bits that let the magic smoke out. Do not open the antistatic packaging until you know why it is there..
There are several ways you can implement the PIC hardware pcb, the cheapest will cost you only a few bucks and some time...you will learn the most from that..BTW can you solder and do you have a Multimeter? Unless you get adventurous, you won't need a CRO.
Download and install the latest version of the Picaxe Progedit and read the 3 PDF helpfiles: Progedit menu| Help| Picaxe manual 2 basic commands etc.
Don't be put off if you don't understand stuff... I have done a fair bit of training over the years and 90% of the problem is understanding the basic concept.. and you won't look back once you get started.
4. Make sure your mentor has an understanding of system safety, this includes electrical safety and an awareness of what bad things can happen if 2 incompatible devices are active as a result of a hardware or software glitch. I nearly choke when I see some of the stuff that is put up on the web re audio amps etc...some of it is lethal if implemented as shown...Fail safe design is something you must get right first time..run everything past your mentor until you are sure why things happen.
BTW... 45 is definitely NOT old...
I have learned so much interesting stuff in the last 10 years, it may have something to do with me abandoning quite a few of my preconceptions.
You will see an increasing number of old buggers doing very interesting things.
Hope to hear back from you, I will try to remember and check this thread regularly.
Kind regards,
Glens.
Hello 120 things,
Great subject line! ...I was expecting a homage to Dr's Flieschmann and Pons (spelling??).. all this for just $2K?-- Bargain.
I am located in Adl and may be able to help you.
Not sure how to contact you directly, does this forum support Personal Messaging?
I have a fair bit of experience in using the Picaxe and some other micro's to control and monitor things, all the way from 40 odd lines of code with an 08- to needing the 40 pin devices to fit in all the wild ideas and drive all the wiggly bits.
I design high end valve audio gear and have 30+ years electronic and IT experience.
(Just establishing credence, not wanting to sound like a smart-alec.)
You are on the right track in using the Picaxe, it is a piece of cake to knock-up a prototype and the programming tool Progedit, with the debug and simulation features makes life a whole lot easier than trying to do it in assembler or C with a OOC programmer.
The sensor inputs and power control interfaces are where most people run into problems with projects like this.
It is one thing for it to work on the test bench with a nice clean supply, another thing entirely for it to work reliably amid the spikes and glitches that fill the real world.
If you wish to make things as painless as possible, then I would recommend a few things, most of which have been alluded to by the other contributors.
1. Choose someone to help you that can explain how and why in terms that make sense... If the explanation is overly ropey, you are probably on the wrong tram.
2. Clearly define the basic functionality and hardware etc and get that working before you try to "tart it up". The classic "mud map" is a great starting point. A golden rule of design is that things should be as simple as possible and no simpler...As soon as you get a complex solution to a problem working, a simpler solution becomes obvious.
3. I do not wish to advise counter to SA Born, but unless you absolutely know that the final device can be implemented using the entry-level PICs, use one of the higher spec devices, like a 28x2 or 40x2. They will have space for more lines of code, more inputs and outputs etc and the extra features never go astray. The extra cost of the chips is insignificant.
You will also learn so much more that way. If you modularise the hardware by treating the PIC board as a black box, then it is easy to upgrade the functionality.. Hint, buy at least 2 PICs, if you are learning as you go, there may be a few bits that let the magic smoke out. Do not open the antistatic packaging until you know why it is there..
There are several ways you can implement the PIC hardware pcb, the cheapest will cost you only a few bucks and some time...you will learn the most from that..BTW can you solder and do you have a Multimeter? Unless you get adventurous, you won't need a CRO.
Download and install the latest version of the Picaxe Progedit and read the 3 PDF helpfiles: Progedit menu| Help| Picaxe manual 2 basic commands etc.
Don't be put off if you don't understand stuff... I have done a fair bit of training over the years and 90% of the problem is understanding the basic concept.. and you won't look back once you get started.
4. Make sure your mentor has an understanding of system safety, this includes electrical safety and an awareness of what bad things can happen if 2 incompatible devices are active as a result of a hardware or software glitch. I nearly choke when I see some of the stuff that is put up on the web re audio amps etc...some of it is lethal if implemented as shown...Fail safe design is something you must get right first time..run everything past your mentor until you are sure why things happen.
BTW... 45 is definitely NOT old...
I have learned so much interesting stuff in the last 10 years, it may have something to do with me abandoning quite a few of my preconceptions.
You will see an increasing number of old buggers doing very interesting things.
Hope to hear back from you, I will try to remember and check this thread regularly.
Kind regards,
Glens.
I agree with the PICAXE selection bit.
If you can only afford one and you haven't decided on a project then get a newer bigger one.
Then you won't have to say "OH bother, I wish I'd bought a bigger one. Now I'll have to spend more money and wait X days/weeks for a new order.". If money permits I'd also recommend one of the newer/bigger dev boards.
Zero Ohm resistors exist?
They certainly do Boriz. Every man and his brother makes them.
Here's a sample.
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2031+203968+110071175&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=resistors&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&prevNValues=2031+203968&mm=1000194||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&originalQueryURL=/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2031+203968&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=resistors&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&prevNValues=2031+203968
BTW . Anyone read the Farnell artice on counterfeit components?
If you can only afford one and you haven't decided on a project then get a newer bigger one.
Then you won't have to say "OH bother, I wish I'd bought a bigger one. Now I'll have to spend more money and wait X days/weeks for a new order.". If money permits I'd also recommend one of the newer/bigger dev boards.
Zero Ohm resistors exist?
They certainly do Boriz. Every man and his brother makes them.
Here's a sample.
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2031+203968+110071175&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=resistors&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&prevNValues=2031+203968&mm=1000194||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&originalQueryURL=/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=2031+203968&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=resistors&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_UK&divisionLocale=en_UK&catalogId=&prevNValues=2031+203968
BTW . Anyone read the Farnell artice on counterfeit components?
In the absolute literal sense, nope. But in the real world, there is often a need for a device that can act as an electrical short in PCB circuit applications, something that an auto-insertion or auto-placement machine can handle as if it were a simple resistor. Thus the "zero Ohm" device, a jumper wire with a plastic body for through-hole insertion equipment. A standard size and shape "chip" for SMT applications.
In through-hole applications they are (were) most often used as jumpers on single-sided PCB's to allow traces to cross one another. In SMT use I expect they are being used (among other things) as "pull-downs" for microprocessor configuration of various product versions, and also to provide a "gain or no gain" choice in op-amp circuitry. Sometimes a short is a good thing.
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No, but I've read a few on both high-end audio and RF transistors. It's enough to make me want to start a wafer fab shop of my own so I can be sure of what I'm getting. These days, we're at the mercy of some pretty unsavory folks in the tech industry, and they don't have much mercy.
Hello Dippy,
You are correct in drawing attention to the counterfeit issue.
Do you have details on the dev boards for 28X2 and 40X2?
It may benefit 120 things if he doesn't have to re-invent the wheel, so early in the process.
There is nothing worse than wanting to test something and by the time the bits show-up, you are busy elsewhere.
Regards,
Glens.
You are correct in drawing attention to the counterfeit issue.
Do you have details on the dev boards for 28X2 and 40X2?
It may benefit 120 things if he doesn't have to re-invent the wheel, so early in the process.
There is nothing worse than wanting to test something and by the time the bits show-up, you are busy elsewhere.
Regards,
Glens.
My point on starting out with the smaller chips is, as a beginner to construct a simple project and get it all working is easier with a small chip, then it can be put into use.
Then start the next project and complete that one, this way you will have dedicated circuits for each application and much easier to trouble shoot.
Than as the skill level grows by all means move to the larger chips and start to combine the individual projects into one chip.
At least you know each project was working, this saves a lot of headaches from conflicts in programming when starting out.
Its not as though the smaller chips are wasted as they get recycled back into other projects.
I have nothing against working with the bigger chips but its often much easier to move up then it is to go back.
The amount of things i have used a 08m for is staggering as they are really a cheap great little chip for developing the quick small projects and with the added functions in the 08m2 now many projects that required a larger chip to be used (like for I2C) can now be scaled back to the 08m2 chip.
It is also good to be limited at times on program space as this teaches us to use smarter programming methods and in many cases faster instruction execution.
Then start the next project and complete that one, this way you will have dedicated circuits for each application and much easier to trouble shoot.
Than as the skill level grows by all means move to the larger chips and start to combine the individual projects into one chip.
At least you know each project was working, this saves a lot of headaches from conflicts in programming when starting out.
Its not as though the smaller chips are wasted as they get recycled back into other projects.
I have nothing against working with the bigger chips but its often much easier to move up then it is to go back.
The amount of things i have used a 08m for is staggering as they are really a cheap great little chip for developing the quick small projects and with the added functions in the 08m2 now many projects that required a larger chip to be used (like for I2C) can now be scaled back to the 08m2 chip.
It is also good to be limited at times on program space as this teaches us to use smarter programming methods and in many cases faster instruction execution.
Is this another joke or is this real? If real, do you have the link?
For the non chemists, that "Element 14" title relates of course to Silicon. When I were a lad,budding chemists were force feed such Periodic Table mnemonics as "Harry,He Likes Beer But Cold Not Over Frothy etc". If further break thru's occur with carbon nano tubes Farnell may have to rebrand as Element 12.
Very real and perhaps the most notorious case ( at least in part blamed on counterfeiting ) was the case of 'exploding electrolytic capacitors' which plagued motherboard manufacturers and others in recent years.
There are many tales of people receiving parts which are inferior to specification, not what they claim to be, and even chips with legs but no silicon inside. I'd say it generally falls into three categories -
1) Stolen parts or unauthorised production runs
2) Inferior, faulty, and flawed imitation parts
3) Non-functioning parts
For the end user the second category is likely the worse, seemingly good parts but not. A wire that cannot carry its rated load can have catastrophic and deadly consequences, and products which should work but don't can cause frustration and tremendous support costs as seen with 'counterfeit PL2303 USB cables'.
fritz42_male
Senior Member
In my case it was a HP all in one printer fax scanner -an expensive one. I chanced on a report that identified 3 electrolytics on the motherboard that had blown and were causing symptoms the same as I had.
$10 worth of replacement caps and half an hour later and I had a perfectly working printer again!
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Thanks for all the input.
My main aim here is to learn for the sake of learning. That's my thing. I don't really have a particular need for any particular device. I want to be able to make whatever device falls out of my head. A lot of stuff that needs to be made falls out of my head on a weekly basis. I look forward to doing it all.
Given all that, I think I see the benifit in buying the chip up from what I think I need. But given I have no idea what I need, and given someone wants to buy it for me as a present, I'm going with the AXE091 Development kit! I also went and bought a PICAXE-08 Proto Board from the store Pete recommended (which is actually 1 chip up from what I need
) So how robust are these things. I have a $5 soldering iron, and I'm afraid to use it. I'll spend some time tomorrow soldering some scrap, and then put this little kit together. I'll have to put a hammer to some electronics from around the home to get some input and output devices, because in spite of getting a "yes there are" answer to the question, "are there some input and output devices in there like a switch and an LED or something, there are not
I also see that I have no idea what this little yellow thing does. I haven't come across it in the manuals yet (half way through manual 2) and has some symbols that I cant type, which makes a google search really tricky.
My little plastic bag has..
a cd
a serial to headphone jack cable
an 8 pin chip and chip holder thing
a jumper and 3 pin jumper accepter thinggy
the headphone jack input plug
two resistors
a yellow thing
and a PICAXE-08 Proto Board
I thought I was buying one of the starter kits, but suspect I haven't.
Based on the spec sheet for the 08 proto board, I think my yellow thing is a 100nF polyester capacitor. Would that be right? And if so would that be C1 on my board?
I think I'm going to presume that I've bought a self assembly PICAXE-08 Proto Board.
Can you offer any tips to get the most out of my $7 soldering iron that I've had since the day I re-soldered a wire that came loose from my dishwasher power switch 10 years ago? (I've already psychically heard you all shouting "throw it in the bin" so there's really no need to reiterate that, though I'll understand if you need to say it again anyway) Until I know what I really need, I'm going to have to make do.
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
SAborn re: that electronics store
I love the idea of an electronics store that sells $2, $5, and $12 lucky dip bags of assorted electronics flotsam and jetsam. What a great way to get rid of excess stock.
I love the idea of an electronics store that sells $2, $5, and $12 lucky dip bags of assorted electronics flotsam and jetsam. What a great way to get rid of excess stock.
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120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
I bought an 8 pin proto board, but I think I'll still buy the development starter pack AXE091U because of my lack of soldering skills even if I just use the 8 pin chip. I get the feeling it will be nice to know my stuff isn't failing because of a poor soldering attempt. No doubt I'll gain the soldering skills as required.
I love the way it turns out it doesn't really matter what you buy. I'll use it all at some stage down the track. And I've just learnt that (I hope I've got this right) the pins are all compatible upwards anyway. Genius. ie pin one does whatever pin one doea no matter what the chip (If I don't have that right, I just had this really good idea
)"Little yellow thing" could be a 100 nF 100V capacitor. Do you have any electrical test gear? Suggest you pop in to the likes of Jaycar & check their numerous DMM (Digital Multi Meter) offerings. Some DMMs in the $$ range cover a full swag of V,I,R,F,L,Hz,diode,transistor & temp measurements, and are up to almost anything a home user may need.
Soldering skills are something you will pick up and the 08M project board is pretty tough with only a few things to solder. Just make sure things are pushed down when you solder them and you'll find useful guides on beginners soldering using a search engine. Number one rule; don't solder IC's, use a socket. And don't have the IC in the socket when soldering it !
The AXE091 development board is a good bit of kit and it's what we use within Rev-Ed.
If I was buying an AXE091 for someone I'd probably also include two or three 08M2 and a 20X2, perhaps a 28X2 as well. That should keep them going for some time. I'd suggest starting experiments with the 08M2 and buy more than one because that's the insurance plan if something does go wrong - Like carrying an umbrella prevents rain, having more than one likely means they'll never get damaged, but if you've only got one it will !
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
fernando_g
Senior Member
Yes, mostly used as jumpers, but sometimes used to adjust a resistive network.
Case in point: You want to adjust the voltage of an LM317 regulator to within -let's say 2%. The LM317 standard tolerance is 4%.
Usually, one would use a pot, but those has a tendency of being fiddled with afterwards, throwing the calibration out of whack.
Many hi-rel apps expressely forbid the use of potentiometers for that matter.
Therefore, you put some series resistors, each paralleled with a zero-ohm one. You measure, if voltage is within limits, do nothing. If not, remove one of the zero ohmers, and now you have an active resistor. Measure again, and repeat as necessary.
There is a National Semi app note describing precisely this technique.
In the old days with thru-hole components, this technique was called trimming...... now you know where the term comes from.
I started off with a 35w iron from Maplin and that worked fine. Antex irons are great and warm up fast for their power but in order to increase efficiency, the tip fits over the element making the element weaker and a backup soldering iron is needed to replace it. Homebase 40w soldering irons run far too hot and will instantly fry any surface mount resistor or de-flux some solder.
Thanks... A more interesting part of this is RoHS parts being sold off as non-RoHS parts - so are ALL RoHS parts inferior to their non-RoHS counterparts then? I thought that only applied to solder.
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Are you looking at my shopping cart wish list and using the force on me to confirm my purchase?
(except the 28X2)Every page I read of your manual just draws me further in. This stuff is amazing. I had no idea this was available to the back yard player. I thought all this stuff was magic that only came out of factories.
I just leant (make that understood (I was told ages ago, but it didn't stick)) that the PC -> chip interface is only that headphone jack. All this time I thought there was something more to it, and that you programmed your chip (on a development board), then moved it to your project. For some reason all those diagrams of those 1 chip, 1 resistor, and 1 plug circuits still didn't make me understand.
I think the manuals have too much tech stuff with pin in and pin outs before the bit that says.. Relax. Everything is going to be fine.
There, that's official feedback from the novice. The manuals should start with the words "Relax, everything is going to be fine.
Hi 120,
Cold fusion is just aquaponics growing perfect trout powered by a PICAXE Here is a pic of my 28X1 used as a pump timer and DS18B20 temp logger hooked up to a sillicon chip kit "webserver in a box". Worked quite well!
Just to give you an idea that it is possible Keep at it!
Cold fusion is just aquaponics growing perfect trout powered by a PICAXE
Here is a pic of my 28X1 used as a pump timer and DS18B20 temp logger hooked up to a sillicon chip kit "webserver in a box". Worked quite well!
Just to give you an idea that it is possible
Keep at it!If you get really stuck post a message here or send me a PM (private message) through the forum and i will call you and walk you through a few things to get you started.
I am also more than happy to let you work things out for yourself, as often that way you dont forget as you learn at your own pace.
The important question to ask is do you have a serial port on your computer, as the cable you have is for serial only.
If you dont have a serial port you will need a usb to serial cable, these can be costly depending where you get one from, i do have about 10 of them here is you need one cheap and in a hurry and can post it Monday if needed.
I buy them from China in lots of 10 for around $2.00 each and never had one not work.
I am also more than happy to let you work things out for yourself, as often that way you dont forget as you learn at your own pace.
The important question to ask is do you have a serial port on your computer, as the cable you have is for serial only.
If you dont have a serial port you will need a usb to serial cable, these can be costly depending where you get one from, i do have about 10 of them here is you need one cheap and in a hurry and can post it Monday if needed.
I buy them from China in lots of 10 for around $2.00 each and never had one not work.
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Thanks BJBlaster.
Do you have a name on an aquaponics forum I might know?
I tend to be BullwinkleII, or 120thingsin20years in various places on various topics.
Do you have a name on an aquaponics forum I might know?
I tend to be BullwinkleII, or 120thingsin20years in various places on various topics.
Yes I have just joined byap as BjShed. I was the one who also built an arduino based controller. I'm not biased to any particular micro-controller, so if I can help out with any ideas let me know
Here is a video of my older PICAXE controller and aquaponics in action... you may need to pause and let it buffer up as it's served from my house..
Here is a video of my older PICAXE controller and aquaponics in action... you may need to pause and let it buffer up as it's served from my house..
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120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Yeah, I run a few computers, and this linux box I tend to use most is from the dark ages. It's bristling with serial ports
I figured I'll buy that AXE091 development board and it will come with the USB version, and this kit I bought will end up being part of my first project, that will no doubt live in the shed semi-permanently connected to an old pc that thrives on dust and genuine bugs (with legs and wings) in the system.
As for the offer of help, I'll take it all. I don't even know what help I need at the moment, so until I build this little kit, and find out exactly what it is that I don't know, I'll try not to bug you on a personal level, but remember you offered when I call you for the 200th time a year from now
In general RoHS parts would be considered superior to non-RoHS parts as they won't contain the hazardous substances they seek to avoid.
There's a particular case though for approval processes which cover non-RoHS parts; using RoHS parts invalidates approval and by not being approved compromises any safety and similar for which approval is mandated. It's not that RoHS parts are inferior to non-RoHS parts just that the approval process is only valid for non-RoHS parts.
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Oh cool, BjShed.
But I cant believe you actually bought a fish feeder from a shop when you have electronics in your brain's bag of tricks. Even I managed a fish feeder with a plastic fork handle glued to a switch, a little motor, and a drill bit
http://120thingsin20years.blogspot.com/2010/11/aquaponics-demand-fish-feeder-success.html
and even a pebble/blutak/string based analog data logger
http://120thingsin20years.blogspot.com/2010/11/aquaponics-string-feed-counter.html
Is string a dirty word here?
But I cant believe you actually bought a fish feeder from a shop when you have electronics in your brain's bag of tricks. Even I managed a fish feeder with a plastic fork handle glued to a switch, a little motor, and a drill bit
http://120thingsin20years.blogspot.com/2010/11/aquaponics-demand-fish-feeder-success.html
and even a pebble/blutak/string based analog data logger
http://120thingsin20years.blogspot.com/2010/11/aquaponics-string-feed-counter.html
Is string a dirty word here?
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
I'm not so sure "Bellyfeel" will make it into the wine reviewers book of vocabulary
Don't get me wrong, I like it, and in fact I'll probably use it, but I cant see it catching on
Took me a while to figure out what that was about
I blame it on my hefty PICAXE reading list.
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
Oddly enough (for me) I have this from a while ago. It only been used to check the voltage of rechargeable batteries used around the home, and to decide when I need to switch the battery charger on my aquaponics system from hi to lo.
It seems to be able to do a lot more than that. I look forward to knowing some more about it.
Your analog string feed counter is rather clever but i think we can upgrade it to a picaxe if you want.
If it is of some importance to count the number of feeds still then we can add a lcd counter if you would like.
I am sure there is some boards kicking around here from other discarded projects already setup to plug a lcd onto and i have several lcd displays i dont like as they are not bright, that i am also happy to give you one of them to play with.
The boards are designed for a 20x2 chip and would require you to purchase the chip (im not that generous ) and as for the code well thats just a matter of a few changes to some past lcd project code and i can give you a working example of using a lcd for counting the feed activations.
Perhaps it is too deep in the pond for a starting project, but it is a very simple project all the same.
What do you think?
If it is of some importance to count the number of feeds still then we can add a lcd counter if you would like.
I am sure there is some boards kicking around here from other discarded projects already setup to plug a lcd onto and i have several lcd displays i dont like as they are not bright, that i am also happy to give you one of them to play with.
The boards are designed for a 20x2 chip and would require you to purchase the chip (im not that generous ) and as for the code well thats just a matter of a few changes to some past lcd project code and i can give you a working example of using a lcd for counting the feed activations.
Perhaps it is too deep in the pond for a starting project, but it is a very simple project all the same.
What do you think?
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
hippy, I'm having some issues uploading photo's with
--------------------
Ubuntu 11.04
running chrome 13.0.782.215
via image button on top of editor
"from computer"
in both the default and basic uploader
--------------------
Firefox works fine on the same system, but I see "the following windows have frozen wait/kill" msgs, using either the normal or option basic uploader with chrome.
I don't care if you don't, but I thought you might like to know
--------------------
Ubuntu 11.04
running chrome 13.0.782.215
via image button on top of editor
"from computer"
in both the default and basic uploader
--------------------
Firefox works fine on the same system, but I see "the following windows have frozen wait/kill" msgs, using either the normal or option basic uploader with chrome.
I don't care if you don't, but I thought you might like to know
120ThingsIn20Years
Senior Member
I have no idea!
My big plan for tomorrow was to see if I can solder.
The idea of frying a LCD so early in my education is a little daunting
Actually the fish feeder doesn't really need to display how much they have had, but rather needs to restrict their total feed within a given time. It turns out fish get really big and start talking to you from the upstairs bathroom if you feed them too much. Or at least that's what Dr Seuss seems to indicate.
The total amount of feed you can deliver is dependant on the amount of filtration (In aquaponics that means veggie patch) you have, so it doesnt really matter if I can read how much they have had*, it matters more that the dont get more than the amount the filter can process. I know that amount because I test the water and know how much that is, so it would be more a case of restricting the total time the motor tuned (and thus the total amount of feed delivered) in any given day. The only downside to restricting the feed might be that they get sick of pressing the lever for no reward, so I would guess it would be better to do something like not let them get any feed if they are being greedy and have pressed the lever within the last 10 minutes.
I'm guessing this would keep them interested. It would also mean I could mess about with their heads and make them learn to press a series of levers in order or something. Fish BTW have memories just like any other critter. They are not all that smart, but they definitely have good memories.
By the way, back then, I was only filling the hopper with an amount of feed the system could cope with in a day. This meant that no matter what they did, they could not totally overwhelm the system and turn it into a rancid swamp.
I stopped using the feeder in the end due to my goat getting a taste for the feed, but I no longer have a goat.
One bit of very useful science (to me at least) would be to couple that with some knowledge of the water temperature. Silver perch slow down over winter and stop feeding. Additional heat can be added to wake them up, but finding the minimum amount required would be useful. The best way to do that would be to graph the temperature, and how often they press the lever.
But all in all, in one form or another, I think that would be the perfect first project. Even if all I do is use the PICAXE to process the lever presses as a go between, between the lever and the motor. It will get me started, and there is some more stuff like the temperature I can add later.
It's official. My first project is to rebuild my feeder.
Actually my first project is to learn how to solder
My second project is to build my project board
My third project is to make an LED flash
And my forth project is to rebuild my feeder.
*But I'll still take you up on the offer because that seems like a very cool thing to pay with
My big plan for tomorrow was to see if I can solder.
The idea of frying a LCD so early in my education is a little daunting
Actually the fish feeder doesn't really need to display how much they have had, but rather needs to restrict their total feed within a given time. It turns out fish get really big and start talking to you from the upstairs bathroom if you feed them too much. Or at least that's what Dr Seuss seems to indicate.
The total amount of feed you can deliver is dependant on the amount of filtration (In aquaponics that means veggie patch) you have, so it doesnt really matter if I can read how much they have had*, it matters more that the dont get more than the amount the filter can process. I know that amount because I test the water and know how much that is, so it would be more a case of restricting the total time the motor tuned (and thus the total amount of feed delivered) in any given day. The only downside to restricting the feed might be that they get sick of pressing the lever for no reward, so I would guess it would be better to do something like not let them get any feed if they are being greedy and have pressed the lever within the last 10 minutes.
I'm guessing this would keep them interested. It would also mean I could mess about with their heads and make them learn to press a series of levers in order or something. Fish BTW have memories just like any other critter. They are not all that smart, but they definitely have good memories.
By the way, back then, I was only filling the hopper with an amount of feed the system could cope with in a day. This meant that no matter what they did, they could not totally overwhelm the system and turn it into a rancid swamp.
I stopped using the feeder in the end due to my goat getting a taste for the feed, but I no longer have a goat.
One bit of very useful science (to me at least) would be to couple that with some knowledge of the water temperature. Silver perch slow down over winter and stop feeding. Additional heat can be added to wake them up, but finding the minimum amount required would be useful. The best way to do that would be to graph the temperature, and how often they press the lever.
But all in all, in one form or another, I think that would be the perfect first project. Even if all I do is use the PICAXE to process the lever presses as a go between, between the lever and the motor. It will get me started, and there is some more stuff like the temperature I can add later.
It's official. My first project is to rebuild my feeder.
Actually my first project is to learn how to solder
My second project is to build my project board
My third project is to make an LED flash
And my forth project is to rebuild my feeder.
*But I'll still take you up on the offer because that seems like a very cool thing to pay with
Can I get a non-RoHS PICAXE to run at 256MHz?No, but SOME might be. And no, I have no examples
If the first part is true why is the second part also true? It makes no sense. It would be like needing a new approval method for PICAXE chips after an 'internal gang programmer change'.
You'll get on file. Just only keep the soldering iron on the pad long enough to melt the solder until it stops flowing. If you get ugly-looking spikes, you've kept it on too long. Also, melt the solder on the connection rather than doing it on the soldering iron beforehand and then putting it on the connection.My big plan for tomorrow was to see if I can solder.
The idea of frying a LCD so early in my education is a little daunting
That's exactly it. If the approval stated we had to use a particular version of a chip to be approved we'd have to use that version of the chip, period. We don't have such rigorous and specific approval processes we have to abide by but people putting things in medical equipment, in aircraft and similar almost certainly do.
That's an excellent point.