12F1840 versus 08M2

69-cat

Member
So I just received an order that I placed for "08M2" to work on some timer PIR timer projects. I popped a chip in my programmer, checked all of the settings, ran simulator and all passed. Placed the chip in the circuit board and does not work. I saw the different chip number listed, checked on line and all indications say they are the same chip. What am I missing here?
Dave
 
What do you mean by "I popped a chip in my programmer" ?. Where did you see the 'different chip number listed' ?

PICAXE chips don't need a programmer, just the resistors to make the download circuit work.

If you have 'programmed' a PICAXE in a generic chip programming device, then you will have lost the PICAXE firmware, and the chip will never be a PICAXE again.

A 12F1840 is only an 08M2+ if supplied by Rev-Ed or a distributor, as it will then be pre-loaded with the PICAXE firmware.

What exactly did you order, and from where ?
 
I have a board that I built that I do all of my programming on that I have used for 6 years. The number I indicated is printed on the chip and the order was placed from Robot Shop and I ordered 08M2.
 
The PICAXE 08M2 is just a PIC12F1840 with PICAXE firmware on it. RevEd (the supplier) had a batch of those chips custom etched with "08M2" on them ... but I believe recently, they've just been leaving the default etching on the chip, which will be PIC12F1840.

If you got it from RevEd, it's a PICAXE.

As Buzby said: Don't try to program one with a PIC programmer ... use a PICAXE programming circuit ... if your "programmer" is for programming PICAXE chips, and it's been working for 6 years, it should be fine.

Is the chip not responding? Do you have a problem with it? Or are you just curious because you saw the different number?
 
OK, I see now.

If PE6 indicates that the chip has programmed OK, but it doesn't work when moved to the target board, there's something wrong on the target board.
 
The PICAXE 08M2 is just a PIC12F1840 with PICAXE firmware on it. RevEd (the supplier) had a batch of those chips custom etched with "08M2" on them ... but I believe recently, they've just been leaving the default etching on the chip, which will be PIC12F1840.

If you got it from RevEd, it's a PICAXE.

As Buzby said: Don't try to program one with a PIC programmer ... use a PICAXE programming circuit ... if your "programmer" is for programming PICAXE chips, and it's been working for 6 years, it should be fine.

Is the chip not responding? Do you have a problem with it? Or are you just curious because you saw the different number?
The board that I built is a test circuit that I can run through all of my inputs and out puts with out having to install them into my controllers. It even has a MP3 player to test triggered audio files along with jumper setting to make the pins an input or output for testing. After checking code and both the board I made for program/testing and the final circuit board, I tried a second chip just for the heck of it and it did the same thing....tried a third chip and it works fine. Looks like I had a couple of bad pieces. Never had a bad chip before but a guess anything can possible....
 
The board that I built is a test circuit that I can run through all of my inputs and out puts with out having to install them into my controllers. It even has a MP3 player to test triggered audio files along with jumper setting to make the pins an input or output for testing. After checking code and both the board I made for program/testing and the final circuit board, I tried a second chip just for the heck of it and it did the same thing....tried a third chip and it works fine. Looks like I had a couple of bad pieces. Never had a bad chip before but a guess anything can possible....
If you bought them from RevEd (and can prove it) they'll replace 'em I'm sure.

I've only got a few hundred PICs/AVRs/PICAXE's under my belt in total, but I've NEVER received a bad part ... any of them that have failed were killed by my own hand.
 
When you say you had two chips that didn't work, are you meaning they didn't programme using PE6 ?.
Or did PE6 show successful programming, but the chips failed to run the target boards ?
 
Well if they had failed during programming, I would have moved onto another chip. I found it odd having 2 back to back that failed to run the program that was uploaded.
 
This is very strange. The chips programmed OK, but didn't run in the target system.

When the chips were in your programming/development rig, did they work the test I/O as expected ?.

I suppose it is not impossible to have bad chips, but if so, you should have seen the problem when the chips were in the test rig.
 
i've bough a number of 08M2s from robot shop and they did not have a picaxe label just the 1840, i ended up marking them with a P so i don't get confused because i used bare 1840s with gc basic. all the 08m2s i've bought from robotshop had no issues,
 
the board I made for program/testing
If you were able to program all three chips in the board you made for testing then that indicates to me that there is nothing wrong with any of the three chips and the reason that two of your chips don't behave as you expect when you plug them into the target board is likely something other than than a "bad" chip and so something that could do with some more investigation.
 
Yes, the resistor is in place in the target board. The 2 pieces that are the problem chips were programmed again with the same end results. No, they did not perform the code while in my development board, that is when I first noticed the problem. No biggie, I was just asking to see if there was a different I needed to do to program this part number, I just have a couple of chips that are not working but I do plan to check the other 17 chips to see if there are any others with the same issue.
 
I did have part of a batch of about 20 off 08M2 chips bought directly from Rev Ed that wouldn't program about 3 or 4 years ago - they were changed by Rev Ed without issue, although IIRC they couldn't suggest how/what caused the problem.

Maybe they escaped the firmware programming process/machine...but I've bought around 1200 of them so far with no other issues. (and will still want a lot more over time - so my response to the "Is Picaxe Dead?" thread is "Hope not" ;))
 
Yes, the resistor is in place in the target board. The 2 pieces that are the problem chips were programmed again with the same end results. No, they did not perform the code while in my development board, that is when I first noticed the problem. No biggie, I was just asking to see if there was a different I needed to do to program this part number, I just have a couple of chips that are not working but I do plan to check the other 17 chips to see if there are any others with the same issue.
If you can program the part they are not supplied faulty, as they would simply not program at all if there was an issue with the internal PICAXE firmware. In this situation (some chips run, some don't) it is 99.9% likely to be a error on the final board itself - lack of 100nF decoupling capacitor, incorrect resistor layout (10k wrong side of 22k is common), marginal power supply voltage etc.
 
I did have part of a batch of about 20 off 08M2 chips bought directly from Rev Ed that wouldn't program about 3 or 4 years ago - they were changed by Rev Ed without issue, although IIRC they couldn't suggest how/what caused the problem.

Maybe they escaped the firmware programming process/machine...but I've bought around 1200 of them so far with no other issues. (and will still want a lot more over time - so my response to the "Is Picaxe Dead?" thread is "Hope not" ;))
Are you allowed to say what commercial product PICAXE is being used in, out of interest?
 
Are you allowed to say what commercial product PICAXE is being used in, out of interest?
I'd rather not, directly - but it's a PCB with 12 LEDs, 3xAA battery powered, with brightness controlled by a potentiometer and used in a portable device. The batteries are permanently connected and when the pot is at its minimum the PICAXE goes to sleep and wakes up every few seconds to quickly check the pot position. If it's still minimum it goes to sleep again. if not it lights and controls the ongoing LED brightnesses via pot position. The sleep allows the batteries to remain in the device for many months meaning the device doesn't need an on/off switch
 
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