Recent content by hamtt

OK so I have a dilemma now which I could appreciate some input with. I wired up the actual 8 switches with the LED's in them directly to the picaxe 5v pin and tested the PWM function and it seems to work fine and is adequate on the 5v direct from Picaxe, so I could do away with having to use a...

It was a wall-plug type 12v 2a psu. I found the issue was with this power supply for some reason. I tried a different 5.5v power supply lying around and with that I didn't have an issue. So today from work I picked up another 12v 1.5a power supply and I'm not having the issue with this one...

Adding the 10k resistor from Serin to ground seems to fix the issue, but now I'm finding after about a minute the test LED is going off and this time the 5v-in to the Picaxe is dropping, after a while it comes back up again. Could the rectifier be getting too hot (is only slightly warm to touch)...

Ok so I decided to start mocking up a circuit for the dash that I posted about in the other thread. Again I apologise if this is an obvious question but I'm new to this so bear with me please. The first step was to reduce a 12v feed to 5v power the Picaxe (18M2 at the moment), so I wrote a...

I've ordered a load of components including optocouplers to play about with to see wat works best.

quick question, what protection do I need between a 12v signal from the switch and the picaxe input pin to detect activation of switch (resistors etc)?

Unfortunately I do require the variable dimming. The amount of dimming is very subjective from driver to driver and in the past some have complained they're not bright enough and others saying its too bright when we've used fixed resistors.

The summary I saw in the notification seemed correct. For this part the Picaxe is only supplying the PWM'd supply for the dim lights, the car relay creates the flashing action and pulses +12v through from the other side.

I got a notification for a reseponse to the thread by Hemi but cant see it, strange..

Both. I'm using momentary switches for the indicators but I'm making them mimick a latching switch through the logic in Picaxe if pressed for longer than 2 seconds. If pressed once they just light the indicators for 7 seconds. The car does not have self-cancelling indicators so this goes some...

C is the "Common" terminal on the switch. On switches like these you have a C (the input of the line) and a "NO" (Normally Open) and an "NC" (Normally Closed) terminal. Depending on how you want the switch to operate, the output connects to NC or NO. If I wanted the switch to make a continuos...

The first version of the dash that I did withoutout a PIC is here: You can see the brightness of the buttons is controlled by an rotary switch attached to a PWM and the buttons lighting up full brightness when pressed or left in a pressed state.

I will mock it up wired directly to the 5v of the picaxe and see what happens. I just didn't like the idea of mixing 5v and 12v.

The switches are a mixture of momentary and latched (the type you describe above). The switches are wired in the car on the high side for operations such as ignition and horn, I can't change this unfortunately as thats how the wiring loom of the car is. I hope the following picture explains...